Categories
National Parks Utah WanderLog

We Spend Christmas in Zion National Park

We made the decision last summer to do “one more” winter in the Airstream. Originally we had planned to take a break, rent a house, and teach the kids how to ski. After some long term planning, we decided that 2017/2018 was the ideal time for the that and everyone agreed we’d spend the winter traveling, exploring, and having a last full-time Christmas celebration in our shiny house.

Then the obvious question became “Where?”

Travel Dates: December 17 – 25, 2016

If you’ve learned anything about me, you’ll know that I’m a bit of a scheduler and planner. Add to that the stress of “one more” and needing it to be “epic” I kind of freaked out months before the holiday even arrived. Nothing was good enough. Nowhere seemed right. We’d throw ideas against the wall of the Western states and nothing would stick. I kind of sort of wanted to be near some family, the kids were dying for snow (despite also wanting to be in the Airstream – two things we had always sworn didn’t mix), and Sam wanted to be in the middle of nowhere in the desert. We decided California was too expensive, the Arizona desert was too remote for logistically making Christmas work, and Mexico seemed like a bad idea all around.

Eventually we settled on making reservations for 10 nights at Snow Canyon State Park in southwestern Utah. We had cousins that would be there visiting in-laws, and it was only 5 hours from my parents whom we thought could be enticed down to visit. The temperatures were forecasted to dip below freezing, but with some reflectix in the windows and generator time we thought we could make it work.

As the Christmas holidays crept closer and closer I kept re-thinking that decision. With our stay in Anza-Borrego State Park and the little solar we were able to utilize with the low winter sun, we had to run our generator quite a bit. Snow Canyon has limited generator hours right in the middle of the day (the perfect time to be out exploring) and we were not confident we could recharge after long night of using the furnace to keep warm.

I kept looking for more options and after playing with the idea of spending night at the lodge in Zion National Park, I casually mentioned to Sam that we could just take the Airstream to Zion instead. Watchman Campground was more expensive, but also had electric hook-ups. We’d be plugged in, could use our small space heater, and we’d be in the park to explore over Christmas! The only snag we could envision was the park service getting upset over us bringing in a Christmas tree.

That conversation led to me to remember that a group of traveling friends had camped on BLM land outside La Verkin (about 30 minutes from the entrance to Zion) on a beautiful bluff overlooking the Virgin River. No generator hours, free camping, and freedom to bring in 10 Christmas trees if we really wanted. This quickly became plan A, and we changed our reservations at Snow Canyon to just 3 days right after Christmas to coincide with my parents renting a condo and joining us in St. George for a few days.

After leaving Anza-Borrego we drove north splitting the drive with a stop in Las Vegas, finally arriving at the epic-sounding boondocking spot only to find it was literally a mud pit. We pulled off the side of the road to check it out on foot before driving down the dirt road, and Sam and I both sloshed and slipped in the mud. With rain and possibly snow in the forecast only going to make it worse, we called an audible and drove the 30 minutes into Zion hoping to snag a walk-up site at 5pm on a Monday evening.

Turns out when Plan B is fairly incredible, you don’t mind the change.

Christmas was everything I hoped it would be. We had fabulous weather for a few days and even managed to hike Hidden Canyon with our kids – a fairly steep ascent into a canyon using chains on part of the trail. We saw the Emerald Pools covered in ice, enjoyed the low crowds, bought our small Christmas tree which fit inside the Airstream Christmas Eve,  and woke up to snow on Christmas Day. We snuggled at night to stay warm and just enjoyed one of our nation’s most beautiful parks in all its winter glory.

“Upper Emerald Falls was fairly frozen on our visit yesterday. The kids spent a good 30 minutes using our hiking poles to break up the weaker sections and watch slabs of ice start a journey downriver. @telegramsam  fished this giant piece out and we marveled at the frozen bubbles inside. Not exactly a privacy shield but luckily there were few people up there with us!” -@currentlywandering

Staying right inside a National Park has some perks, including easy access to the park right outside your door. Our afternoon wander provided some excellent views and great fun. Merry Christmas! -@telegramsam

“Our casual drive around Zion turned a little more serious when we decided on a whim to hike Hidden Canyon. The part of the trail that wasn’t steep was cut into the rock and occasionally offered chains for safety. It was a challenge to us all, but most particularly to Cara and Rachel. Everybody was awesome, and we went home tired and happy.” -@telegramsam

“There’s something extra magical about an Airstream Christmas. The snow is sticking to the ground outside and our kids are going to wake up to a blanket of white in a National Park. I can’t wait!”-@currentlywandering

“Snowball fight! We decided to abandon our fancy breakfast plans in favor of a snowball fight before church earlier this morning. Always a good decision.” – @currentlywandering

“The kids opted to stay indoors with new toys (Legos! Paw Patrol! Watercoloring!) this afternoon while @telegramsam and I had a hiking date. We went up Watchman Trail and had fun sloshing in mud and slipping on sections of hard packed snow. I’ve concluded these red rocks all dusted with snow = 😍” – @currentlywandering

Sometimes our plans just fail. More often than not we aren’t sure of our location 2 weeks out. Its part of the lifestyle, and we have learned to roll with it. Sometimes however, things work out more beautifully than we could have imagined.  As Sam and I crunched our way through the snow up to the top of Watchman Trail on our hiking date, we looked at each other and just had to laugh at the winding path we took to get there. We wished everyone we passed a “Merry Christmas” as it truly was one of the best we’ve had yet.

Categories
California National Parks On the Water

Kayaking on Santa Cruz Island, California

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This last Thanksgiving weekend, we spent 3 days out in Channel Islands National Park. The park consists of 5 islands located off the coast of southern California.

While doing research prior to the trip, I discovered one of the attractions for Santa Cruz Island is the sea caves. We have enjoyed paddling in lakes, streams, and rivers so adding some pacific sea cave kayaking to our resumes sounded like fun!

When We Visited: November 22-25, 2016

Ages of Kids: 11, 9, 6

channel-islands-2016_33We have a reasonable amount of paddling experience, and toyed with the idea of renting kayaks and bringing them on the ferry. After some research and discussion, however, both Sam and I agreed this adventure was out of our comfort zone. Instead we contacted Santa Barbara Adventure Company, who graciously agreed to comp both Sam & my fees on a media/press/blogger expedition. They are one of a few outfitters serving the Channel Islands and came highly recommended by some outdoor friends. They provided the kayaks, gear, and guides for our experience even going above and beyond with an extra guide to paddle with Andrew as all kids under 12 are required to paddle with an adult.

We walked down from the campground on Wednesday morning, and met our group near their equipment on the beach. Starting times vary as the ferry arrival isn’t super consistent. Many of the participants were coming over for just the day so we had to wait until everyone was unloaded. Totally not a problem.

Before we hit the water, we outfitted in our suits, PFDs, and a good application of sunscreen. Wrestling kids into wet suits was a bit of a challenge for both them and us, but we all made it work. Our last major experience in the ocean was in Florida over Christmas, and water there was quite warm. Here in the Pacific the water is significantly colder so we opted for both wet suits and paddle jackets!

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After gearing up, we had a quick safety talk. Our guides instructed us on paddle handling, how to get in the boat (rear end first, then swing your legs over!), and safety measures should someone fall out. The weather that morning was fairly windy, and I was grateful for our choice to work with an outfitter and for their attention to our safety. Our guides reiterated that if we weren’t comfortable we wouldn’t have fun and to let them know if we experienced difficulties!

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Our guides specifically advised paying attention to our seat adjustment in the kayak. There are a set of straps that adjust the sitting position, and getting it right made a huge difference. Most of us got adjusted properly before launch, but Rachel needed some adjustment during our paddle. She was really struggle with leg cramps (and attitude!) and came close to the edge of a total meltdown. Our super attentive guide recognized her discomfort and managed her straps while on the water. While it wasn’t a fix for her attitude problems, we definitely solved the leg cramping and her spirits improved considerably!

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The kayaks are tandem kayaks and for good reason. During difficult wind or swell conditions it can take all the effort of two good paddlers to fight the waves. Sam is our strongest paddler, so he paired with 6-year-old Cara. I’m not the most amazing paddler myself, so Rachel came with me. Andrew joined a guide in a double kayak. He can be seen in the picture below, holding up a Giant Antler Kelp we found floating on the surface.

The main attraction to see around the islands are the sea caves at the bottom of the cliffs. We were able to paddle into and through several caves during our tour, and it was a great experience. We paddled along the edge of the cliffs to visit each spot, pausing in small coves to rest. On the first half of the trip, we were paddling against both the wind and the swell, and it was really challenging. Turns out you can also get a little motion sick while paddling a kayak through the ocean!

During our breaks, we listened to the now obvious advice from our guides and anchored ourselves to the kelp beds during our rests. By grabbing a handful of kelp, your kayak would not drift away, yet required no paddling to keep in place. Seriously genius.

Our guides talked to us about the island, the wildlife, how the caves were formed and other interesting facts about the area. I loved that our tour was not only physical exercise, it was informative as well. Two of the caves we visited were pretty large, but the last and smallest had fairly tight quarters. We entered one at a time and had just enough room to spin around and head back out. Only open at certain tide levels, the cave is called “Shark’s Teeth” and was definitely everyone’s favorite!

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It isn’t very obvious in the picture below, but the seas were pretty rough at points of our trip. At one point Jess and Rachel needed some help and accepted a temporary tow from one of the guides. Little Cara tried hard, but Sam was clearly doing most of the difficult work. At the halfway point of our trip, we had an opportunity to paddle past the point of the island to look down its length. This put us in full exposure to the stiff wind and oncoming swell

With guides present, we were able to be a little more adventurous. Sam and Cara paddled hard out beyond the point into the big swells, knowing that if they had some trouble guides were not far away. We also appreciated their knowledge of the sea caves, and which were safe to enter given the sea conditions and the current level of the water.

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We turned around and made it back across from the beach with about an hour and a half left in our time. Here we had the option to beach our kayaks, or to continue south and explore the other end of the island. We knew our kids were tired and it would be a paddle upwind to return, so we opted out. The rest of our group continued on but we were definitely happy with what we had accomplished.

After stowing our kayak gear, Cara surprised us by insisting she wanted to go snorkeling. For no additional charge Santa Barbara Adventure Co will also provide snorkel gear. While Sam and I added a wet suit jacket to our sleeveless suits, our guide fitted the three of us with fins & masks. Rachel and Andrew, however, walked back to the tents for a rest claiming they were too tired for a swim. Apparently kayaking totally wore them out!

Cara didn’t last long, but watching her excitedly point out fish and swim through tall kelp was adorable! She seemed excited to have mom and dad all to herself and dove in like a champ. The kids all learned to snorkel on the Dry Tortugas last year, and apparently Cara liked it enough to go again. This time we had kelp beds instead of coral and it was fun to experience something completely different.

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As a family we participate in a lot of outdoor adventure. From backpacking to mountain biking, or simple nature walks we regularly push our physical and mental boundaries. This kayak trip was definitely one of the hardest outdoor experiences we’ve had. That said, I’m so glad we did it! We felt completely safe and taken care of by our guides – which is honestly one of the best ways to push your limits.

If you head to Santa Cruz Islands in the Channel Islands National Park, definitely make the time for some sea kayaking while you are there. It’ll be worth it!

Categories
Montana National Parks

5 Family Activites on the West Side of Glacier National Park

Thinking of visiting Glacier National park with your family? The park is so huge we broke our visit into two - check out our top 5 activities for the west side!

Glacier National Park is a favorite for quite a few people.  Its always been high on my list, but we just hadn’t quite had the time to visit. This fall I was feeling spontaneous and ready for adventure so we drove a few extra hours in late September to spend six days on the west side.

It was magical. Every National Park should be visited in every season, but since that is unrealistic, let’s just say that Glacier is spectacular in the fall. Crisp air, changing leaves, and fewer crowds are just three of the perks for visiting in the off season.

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Amid school, work, and church we managed to keep ourselves busy for almost a week and definitely left plenty to do the next time we visit! While this isn’t an exhaustive list of activities on the west side of this park, here are some of our favorites:

1. Go on a Hike

The park newspaper is fabulous for planning hikes! There are detailed maps, one-way mileage, elevation and locations for the trail heads. All valuable information when you are planning activities with kids. Three hikes we did on this side were Avalanche Lake, Hidden Lake, and Rocky Point. There were a few other hike recommendations, but we really just didn’t have time to do everything (as much as I wanted to!).

I noticed that many of the hikes in the park require some serious effort. When I asked a ranger for an 8-10 mile loop hike, she gave me a blank stare. “We have more like 3-4 day loops hikes here,” was her comment. She went on to suggest some easier 3-4 mile hikes, but that’s about as difficult as we got.

While we didn’t venture out in to the back country due to cold night time temperatures, we did keep ourselves busy by strolling along the shore of Lake McDonald and driving to the summit via Going to the Sun Road.

Avalanche Lake Hike: 2.3 miles one way, 500 ft elevation gain

This is a well used trail. Luckily for us Avalanche Creek campground was already closed for the season, otherwise I think the trail would have been packed. The trail begins in conjunction with the Trail of the Cedars boardwalk and is a nice meander through some beautiful cedar trees.

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Just past the most amazing glacier waterfall (the water is SO blue) you take a turn to head up to the lake. The trail is not necessarily steep, but it is a pretty constant uphill. We did see a black bear WAY across the lake from us once we got there, but not close enough to even worry about the bear spray we had forgotten to bring.

Bonus: There is an outhouse just before you get to the lake. Hallelujah.

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Hidden Lake: 2.6 miles one way, 460 ft elevation + dropping 780 ft down to the lake

The temperature steadily dropped as we drove Going to the Sun Road up to the top of the pass. Once we got the top it was actually really cold and we quickly put on ALL our layers.  The trail to Hidden Lake starts behind the Logan Pass visitor center. It is mostly paved or a boardwalk until you get to the overlook about 1.4 miles down the trail.

While the overlook was nice, continuing on the trail down to the lake was GORGEOUS. Even if you don’t hike all the way down, go out on the trail a bit. I promise its totally worth going past the overlook. While the goats were not out in abundance (perhaps they don’t like cold wind?) we did see a fat marmot. Much more exciting than goats anyway.

We had a nice lunch down by the shore of the lake, and I was amazed that not just one, but TWO guys jumped in the water to swim. They were out quickly, but apparently its a thing? Wow. I was not tempted to get in.

Bonus: There is an outhouse down by this lake as well. Hooray for an easy place for kids to go to the bathroom!

Rocky Point Hike: 1.1 mile, gains 85 ft elevation

This is an easy 2 mile lollipop loop with a great overlook of Lake McDonald. We drove from the campground over to Fish Creek Campground and the trail head was pretty obvious from there. While the trail itself wasn’t anything spectacular, this was a great “we just need to get out in the evening” type trail.

2. Drive Going to the Sun Road

This road is famous for a reason. It twists and turns and gains some serious elevation on the way up to Logan Pass. We were so excited to be on it that you would have thought we won the lottery. There are a few pull outs to get out of the way and take photos and we used more than a few. We also had some great clouds moving across the valley below us which helped shape the already dynamic landscape. Even if you aren’t going hiking up at the top, its definitely worth the drive!

3. Eat ice cream and watch the sunset on Lake McDonald

In Apgar village there’s a little ice cream shop that was open until 8pm. We each grabbed some ice cream (my flavor was huckleberry! yum!) and took them out to sit on the dock and watch night settle over Lake McDonald.

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You can also rent boats on the lake, but we opted out of that for the time being as we’d rather have canoes not kayaks. The outfitter only had the latter this late in the season. Bummer. It would’ve been a good time.

4. Camp in Apgar Campground

There’s a lot of turn over in the campground, so even though many of the sites were first come, first served we didn’t have trouble snagging one on a Wednesday night.We did notice that things filled up over the weekend, and then magically emptied again on Sunday night. Typical campground behavior.

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For trailers many of the sites put the door on the wrong side, so maybe just be a little picky. There’s a trail that you can walk/bike to the Apgar Ranger Station, or even just walk to Apgar village or down to the lake.

5. Attend a Ranger Program & Earn Jr. Ranger Badge

Naturally, we earned our Jr. Ranger Badges while we were there. I felt the book was well put together and easy enough for the kids to figure out on their own. There are A LOT of ranger programs in all areas of the park but we chose an easy one about animals getting ready for the winter at the Apgar Visitor Center. We learned about mountain goats, pikas, bears, and the marmots. Score one for road school.

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I would have loved to visit Bowman Lake but it was a long drive out there on a dirt road, and we were unsure of boat rentals and/or the status of the road that late in the year.  We’ll make sure we make it up there next time as I’ve heard its gorgeous.

We’ll be visiting the east side – Two Medicine, Grinnell Glacier, Many Glacier next summer. We plan to hit some of the back country sites (possibly even from the Canada side!) so stay tuned!

Categories
National Parks

Happy 100th Birthday to the National Park Service!

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Today is the 100th birthday of the National Park Service! We started noticing their Find Your Park campaign in 2015 and have loved watching the parks gear up for their centennial celebration. There are parks all over the country celebrating with special events this weekend, including FREE admission to all National Park sites from August 25-28, 2016. Check their website to see what’s going on in your area this weekend!

Unfortunately with our infinite amounts of flexibility we hadn’t planned to be in a National Park this week. Oops! Didn’t think that one through entirely I suppose.

Although we aren’t exploring a national park THIS week, over the last three years of traveling, we have visited 24 of the 59 official National Parks, in addition to many other sites within the National Park Service. You can check out the parks and any notes I’ve made about earning the Jr. Ranger Badge over here on this page (current count is 104 badges!).

National Parks we’ve visited top to bottom (24/59): Saguaro, Mammoth Caves, Grand Canyon, Death Valley, Carlsbad Caverns, Arches, Voyageurs, Everglades, Joshua Tree, Mount Rainier, Yosemite, Hot Springs, Pinnacles, Redwoods, Zion, Grand Teton, Bryce Canyon, Great Basin, Mesa Verde, Yellowstone, Olympic, Badlands, Crater Lake, Dry Tortugas

Over the weekend I’ll also be re-sharing some of our favorite National Park related blog posts over on Facebook & Twitter so don’t forget to follow us there!

Mostly, I’m grateful for the National Park Service and the areas they serve and protect. Visiting NPS sites is a HUGE part of our travels & education and we’ve been able to “Find Our Park” over and over again.

Where’s your park?

http://findyourpark.com/

Categories
Arkansas National Parks On the Water

A Canoeing Service Project on the Buffalo National River, Arkansas

The morning we left Hot Springs National Park, we made a quick decision to take the long way to Bentonville and drive past the Buffalo National River. The drive through the backroads was beautiful, and we were rewarded with an empty campground at Tyler Bend. We were startled to discover that we had great Verizon, and started asking ourselves how long we could manage to stay.

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After the fairly crowded campground at Hot Springs, we really appreciated the space we had to enjoy. We found our way to the river and explored a small section our first evening there.DSCF4800

The kids worked on a Junior Ranger Badge the next morning, and we found a short hike to enjoy as well. With time in Texas still on our mind, we were blown away by the beauty of the hills and the river. We very quickly began to wonder if there was a reasonable way to get ourselves onto the river.

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While Junior Rangering, Jess discovered a service project had been organized for the very next day with the intent of cleaning up a 7 mile section of the Buffalo River’s 150 miles. Despite an expired reservation date, we called and were accepted into the project.

We left that evening after only one night in our empty campground and headed upriver to the Ozark Campground. Our project started at Pruitt Landing (just a few road miles away) and we wanted to be situated close for convenience. The ranger assured us that we would have no trouble pulling a 28ft Airstream down the gravel road into Ozark.

The ranger didn’t happen to mention that the highway to the campground was under serious construction, and that the steep gravel entrance road would present a 4 wheel drive worthy challenge. After cresting the summit we briefly re-evaluated our lives, and somehow decided to continue down the hill to the campground. We encountered similarly steep grades as we crept down the road and miraculously didn’t meet any cars on the narrow road.

We really should have taken pictures of our entertaining experience, but we were focused on remaining alive. We did make it into the campground fine (and back out two nights later), but I would not recommend this campground with a similar rig unless you REALLY wanted to stay right there and have sufficient intestinal fortitude.

Anyway, back to the project…

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We left the Airstream at the Ozark campground and arrived at Pruitt Launch with suitable clothes, sandals, and water, snacks, and lunch. A local canoe outfitter was generous enough to supply canoes, vests, and paddles for volunteers, and we spread ourselves between two of them. After some short instruction, the group headed off down the river.

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We were immediately struck with the incredible beauty of this river.  As we slowly scanned the riverbanks for garbage, we had plenty of time to appreciate the views.

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About halfway down our planned section, we made a stop for lunch at the convergence of the Little Buffalo. Happy to be out of the boats, the kids stacked some rocks, swam a bit, and ate our packed lunch.

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We spent some lunchtime getting to know some of the other volunteers. Nearly all of them lived in the immediate area and frequented the river. The group was mostly older couples, and they welcomed our young family with three kids.

We also dropped off some of the larger trash items we had collected. At this point, that consisted of a collection of car tires, a smashed steel drum, and an old metal kitchen stove. One of the locals planned to come in by land with an ATV to haul that out. Emptying our canoes turned out to be a good idea, as the second half of our trip filled our canoes back up with newly removed garbage.

Rachel and I gained the honor of paddling this huge semi-truck tire out. Spotted by Cara, this tire was embedded in the rocks and gravel on the riverbank, and even had some roots growing through it. We dug it out, and wrestled it onto the canoe. It was filled with rocks and gravel, but I managed to empty most of that out during a portage just downstream.

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Along with the big stuff, we picked up plenty of smaller trash. Most of this was picked off the riverbanks, stuck in bushes and trees. We were appalled at how much garbage there was, and asked the locals about it.

A little of the trash was from river travelers, but the bulk of the larger garbage was the result of local flooding that washed things out of yards and down river. In spite of all the garbage we picked up, don’t get the idea that the river was a garbage heap. It was beautiful, and finding trash really took a sharp eye.

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By the time we reached our takeout at Hasty, we were only half done with the job. We had to carry all the tires and garbage up the steep bank to the parking lot. The picture below on the right was our garbage haul (with our one huge truck tire), and the picture on the left is a picture of just SOME of the tires from our group. By the time we had it all hauled up and loaded onto the truck, the pile was shockingly huge.

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The service project done, we shuttled cars and then made our way to the Ozark Cafe in Jasper for some well earned burgers and milkshakes.

Service opportunities are difficult to find while traveling full time, so we like to take advantage of them while we can This experience turned the Buffalo River into one of our all time favorite places, and we are already scheming how we can go back and paddle more of it!