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Arkansas National Parks On the Water

A Canoeing Service Project on the Buffalo National River, Arkansas

The morning we left Hot Springs National Park, we made a quick decision to take the long way to Bentonville and drive past the Buffalo National River. The drive through the backroads was beautiful, and we were rewarded with an empty campground at Tyler Bend. We were startled to discover that we had great Verizon, and started asking ourselves how long we could manage to stay.

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After the fairly crowded campground at Hot Springs, we really appreciated the space we had to enjoy. We found our way to the river and explored a small section our first evening there.DSCF4800

The kids worked on a Junior Ranger Badge the next morning, and we found a short hike to enjoy as well. With time in Texas still on our mind, we were blown away by the beauty of the hills and the river. We very quickly began to wonder if there was a reasonable way to get ourselves onto the river.

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While Junior Rangering, Jess discovered a service project had been organized for the very next day with the intent of cleaning up a 7 mile section of the Buffalo River’s 150 miles. Despite an expired reservation date, we called and were accepted into the project.

We left that evening after only one night in our empty campground and headed upriver to the Ozark Campground. Our project started at Pruitt Landing (just a few road miles away) and we wanted to be situated close for convenience. The ranger assured us that we would have no trouble pulling a 28ft Airstream down the gravel road into Ozark.

The ranger didn’t happen to mention that the highway to the campground was under serious construction, and that the steep gravel entrance road would present a 4 wheel drive worthy challenge. After cresting the summit we briefly re-evaluated our lives, and somehow decided to continue down the hill to the campground. We encountered similarly steep grades as we crept down the road and miraculously didn’t meet any cars on the narrow road.

We really should have taken pictures of our entertaining experience, but we were focused on remaining alive. We did make it into the campground fine (and back out two nights later), but I would not recommend this campground with a similar rig unless you REALLY wanted to stay right there and have sufficient intestinal fortitude.

Anyway, back to the project…

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We left the Airstream at the Ozark campground and arrived at Pruitt Launch with suitable clothes, sandals, and water, snacks, and lunch. A local canoe outfitter was generous enough to supply canoes, vests, and paddles for volunteers, and we spread ourselves between two of them. After some short instruction, the group headed off down the river.

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We were immediately struck with the incredible beauty of this river.  As we slowly scanned the riverbanks for garbage, we had plenty of time to appreciate the views.

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About halfway down our planned section, we made a stop for lunch at the convergence of the Little Buffalo. Happy to be out of the boats, the kids stacked some rocks, swam a bit, and ate our packed lunch.

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We spent some lunchtime getting to know some of the other volunteers. Nearly all of them lived in the immediate area and frequented the river. The group was mostly older couples, and they welcomed our young family with three kids.

We also dropped off some of the larger trash items we had collected. At this point, that consisted of a collection of car tires, a smashed steel drum, and an old metal kitchen stove. One of the locals planned to come in by land with an ATV to haul that out. Emptying our canoes turned out to be a good idea, as the second half of our trip filled our canoes back up with newly removed garbage.

Rachel and I gained the honor of paddling this huge semi-truck tire out. Spotted by Cara, this tire was embedded in the rocks and gravel on the riverbank, and even had some roots growing through it. We dug it out, and wrestled it onto the canoe. It was filled with rocks and gravel, but I managed to empty most of that out during a portage just downstream.

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Along with the big stuff, we picked up plenty of smaller trash. Most of this was picked off the riverbanks, stuck in bushes and trees. We were appalled at how much garbage there was, and asked the locals about it.

A little of the trash was from river travelers, but the bulk of the larger garbage was the result of local flooding that washed things out of yards and down river. In spite of all the garbage we picked up, don’t get the idea that the river was a garbage heap. It was beautiful, and finding trash really took a sharp eye.

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By the time we reached our takeout at Hasty, we were only half done with the job. We had to carry all the tires and garbage up the steep bank to the parking lot. The picture below on the right was our garbage haul (with our one huge truck tire), and the picture on the left is a picture of just SOME of the tires from our group. By the time we had it all hauled up and loaded onto the truck, the pile was shockingly huge.

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The service project done, we shuttled cars and then made our way to the Ozark Cafe in Jasper for some well earned burgers and milkshakes.

Service opportunities are difficult to find while traveling full time, so we like to take advantage of them while we can This experience turned the Buffalo River into one of our all time favorite places, and we are already scheming how we can go back and paddle more of it!

Categories
Arkansas Utah WanderLog

Rapid Travel From Arkansas to Utah

Our travel pace is usually pretty slow, by design. Our average ‘move’ is only about 100 miles, and we move about every 3 to 5 days. This varies of course, but we commonly travel our average pace. We have often talked about executing a ‘fast’ move to linger a little longer in one place and still make our planned destination, and we recently did just that.

In May we moved 1,114 miles in 5 days, driving through pieces of 6 states, which is about 10 times our usual pace. We did this to spend extra time mountain biking in Arkansas and still arrive in Utah when planned. This might not sound like much of a push, but consider that we are working, schooling, and living ‘normal’ life along the way.

We’ve found the trick to covering a large distance is to: 1) make sure you have a rest day in there somewhere and 2) break up a longer distance (6 hour drive) by leaving late in the afternoon, over-nighting at a truck stop/Wal-Mart, etc. and then covering the remaining distance early the following morning.

Here’s how we did this particular fast paced trip from Arkansas to Utah:

Monday

Bella Vista, AR to Red Rock Canyon State Park, OK.
Distance: 297 miles
Time: 5 hours

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We left early-ish, mostly to avoid a storms that would be hitting Bella Vista later that morning. We still had some rain on our drive, but managed to avoid most of it. We made a stop in Tulsa, OK at the newly opened Costco for some much needed supplies. I also had a local brake shop check (and then replace) my front truck brakes. They had been feeling odd, and it was definitely time for a replacement. I was grateful that I had done so when we faced a steep road with sharp turns when we arrived at Red Rock Canyon State Park.

After arriving mid-afternoon, we made sure to get out for a walk and enjoy the park for the little time we were there.

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Tuesday

Red Rock Canyon State Park, OK to New Mexico / Texas State Line
Distance: 287 miles
Time: 5 hours

Tuesday was the first half of what we call a ‘split-drive.’ When facing a longer hop, we leave late and drive partway, overnight somewhere, and finish the drive in the morning.

We spent the morning working, schooling, and a even got in a workout. We pulled up the crazy scary hill (in 4WD low!) and made a quick stop at the hardware store for some… spray paint! More on that in a moment.

We made a stop in Shamrock, TX to visit a cute little visitors center remade in classic style along Route 66. We enjoyed our visit, but didn’t stick around for the view of the classic neon lights after dark because of our next adventure for the day.

“Epic driving today across Oklahoma, Texas, and into New Mexico. Stopped for a quick break at the Center of Commerce in Shamrock, Texas along the historic Route 66. I thought it was quite fitting that Cara watched the movie “Cars” before we arrived.” – Jess

13126719_630598663785501_367371797_n Just west of Amarillo, TX is the famed Cadillac Ranch, where we stopped for a break and some graffiti practice. The kids thought it was pretty cool to spray paint these old cars!

“The kids took adding their mark to Cadillac Ranch very seriously. Like, seriously? We get to do this? We brought two cans of spray paint (red and blue) but were able to use many other colors people before us left behind. Turns out gold, silver, and black do a great job outlining whatever it is you are painting. Maybe next time we’ll brush up on our graffiti art skills before we stop by.” – Jess

“It was such a departure from our usual activities, and party of what made today great.

On the way out, we picked up all the empty spray cans and left with smiles on our faces.” – Sam

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We enjoyed an unhurried experience and then grabbed dinner at nearby Subway truck stop to eat during the last leg of our journey.

We headed West again as the sun was setting, arriving at the Texas/Oklahoma state line rest area / visitors center right at dusk. We found a truck parking space on the edge of the lot, and headed to bed without much ceremony.

Wednesday

New Mexico / Texas State Line to Cochiti Lake Recreation Area, NM
Distance: 234 miles
Time: 3.5 hours

We awoke to find a semi-truck parked a ‘little’ close, but after a quick cereal breakfast we left without incident and headed into New Mexico.

13118133_232388310470876_1831304767_nWe made quick stop at the grocery store for supplies in Sante Fe, and then arrived mid-day at Cochiti Lake. We picked a dry camping site which totally boggled the mind of our neighbors as there were still hook up sites available. The weather was going to be reasonably cool, we had plenty of sun for our solar panels and we weren’t staying long enough to need a sewer connection. Plus, the dry camping sites were only $10/night! Can’t beat that. Overall the campground was quiet and reasonably spaced, and we enjoyed not moving as we worked and relaxed for the remainder of the afternoon.

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Thursday

Rest Day  at Tent Rocks National Monument

After a morning of school and work, we headed out in the afternoon to hike at Tent Rocks National Monument.  One of our traveling friends had mentioned this was one of their favorite places so we were excited to see what it had to offer! There’s no campground, and one main loop hike that most people come to do.

The hike included a slot canyon which all of us love! After a fairly steep (but doable) switchback up a large hill we were rewarded with an amazing view of the surrounding area!

These rock formations are different than anything we had seen, and we loved exploring here.

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Friday

Cochiti Lake Rec Area, NM to Hovenweep National Monument, UT.
Distance: 296 miles
Time: 5 hours

Our final stretch of driving took us out of New Mexico, across the corner of Colorado, and barely into Utah. We managed to find an epic pull off for lunch – it looked like a combination of the Badlands in South Dakota and the Painted Hills in Oregon.

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We had heard that Hoveenweep National Monument was a great stop, and we planned to hang out there for the weekend before heading up to Moab to meet friends. Hovenweep is a fair distance from anything, which made it a peaceful location to explore and recover from our fast travel week. More on our visit there later as it turned out to be a pretty epic place to explore!

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We had quite a few longer drives in the car (2-3 hours) and to keep everyone’s sanity in check Jess and I alternated driving while the other person worked. I was able to keep up pretty well on work, especially because I had most mornings to get a few hours in before we drove anyway (minus the overnight stop).

The kids listened to their audio books, read, played with toys, watched movies, played Minecraft, and we listened to Harry Potter as a family. The kids were actually pretty excited about some long car days as they get to watch movies and play the tablet more than they would if we were sitting still!

It was so unusual for us to breeze through so many places without pausing, but in a way it was a bit refreshing to cover so much distance in such a short time. Although there were places we could have explored a bit more, we reminded ourselves of the extra time we had in Arkansas and just moved on. Though ‘warp’ drives like this likely won’t happen frequently, we are glad to know we can move fast if needed.