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Arizona Nevada

Hoover Dam & the Cranky Security Guard

Hoover Dam and the Cranky Security Guard

We are huge Percy Jackson fans, and ever since reading The Titan’s Curse (where Percy & Annabeth end up in the bowels of the dam being chased by monsters) the kids have been anxious to visit Hoover Dam.

After returning to our Airstream in Las Vegas from Christmas break, we planned a solid two weeks of exploring the area, with Lake Mead & Hoover Dam near the top of the list.

When We Visited: January 26, 2015
Ages of Kids: 9, 7, 4
Where We Stayed: Boulder Beach Campground, Lake Mead National Recreation Area

We learned from the Lake Mead visitor center, that we could ride the Historic Rail Trail from the visitor center parking lot all the way to Hoover Dam. With a roundtrip distance of only 6 miles we figured we’d get some exercise, learn a little history, and avoid paying the $10 parking fee.

Genius.

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The bike ride itself went great! The trail is a mix of gravel and dirt so not the easiest to ride on, but our kids are veterans. The path was fairly flat, with only a large downhill section near the end. The only thought I had (which Rachel also voiced as well) was that we were going to have to climb back UP this on the way out. Awesome. Something to look forward to. We also switched the Ride-aLong to the mountain bike instead of the cyclo-cross as it has more traction and there was less possibility of us totally eating dirt.

Along the path we ran into the Hoover Dam “graveyard” of old parts, as well as one of the power relay stations. I suppose all that hydroelectric power has to get out somehow, right?

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We made it to the Hoover Dam property boundary where, conveniently, a bike rack was located for us to lock up before heading in for our tour. We took this as a sign that quite a few people actually ride their bikes in to tour the dam and we were doing something fairly common. Turns out that’s not really the case. Notice in the photos, we ALL have backpacks.

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As it was lunch time we grabbed an outdoor table and set about munching down our tuna, crackers, hummus, and veggies while looking at the surroundings. One of the first things we noticed were bright yellow signs advising that large bags (and there was a black square photo to demonstrate the size which was not very large) were not permitted. Uhhh… we had 5 such bags. What were we going to do with those? We decided to just head in anyway and see what the deal was.  The signs also said “no food allowed” which we thought meant, “no open food” or “no eating” on the tour. No problem. We’ll just keep it all packed up as all we had left after lunch were sealed up snacks for the ride home.

We followed the “tours this way” signs and headed down of set of escalators to the main building. As we walked inside we instantly noticed the TSA-like bank of metal detectors and x-ray machines. Okay, no big deal. We start to load up the gray trays when a super helpful lady looks at us, and says “There’s no food allowed inside.”

“It’s all sealed,” Sam replies.
“Sorry, you can’t take it in with you.” She gives us a sympathetic look but doesn’t back down. “You could send your bags through the scanner just to see what’s in it,” she suggested.
“We know what’s in it. Wow, you guys don’t make this easy on families, do you?” Sam mutters half under his breath. I don’t think his remark was said belligerently, but suddenly the young, male security guard at the other end of the machine looks up at us, and says, “What did you say?”
“Just that you don’t make this very easy on families who bike in, that’s all,” said Sam.
“We don’t make the rules,” he responds getting testier by the second.

Then I swear this guy went nuts on us. Everything we said, or tried to say just made him more angry. Sam and I started talking quietly about a plan to stash all the food in one bag and take it back by the bikes. The security guy told us that if we left a bag somewhere it would be considered “abandoned” and we couldn’t do that because it was illegal.

Say, what? How is leaving a bag locked up by our bikes suddenly abandoned? Is that different than leaving it in the car?

At one point I looked at him and said, “You need to stop talking to us,” to which he replied that we needed to leave “right now.” Ummm… no. Not going to happen.

Sam and I are still quietly talking, while a bit of a line starts building up behind us, and the original, generally nice female security guard is looking a little embarrassed. We let people go in front of us while we continue packing all of the food into one of our smaller bags, leaving the kids some water, binoculars, and other randomness in theirs, while I still have my camera bag.

“If you come back without that bag, I’ll know you left it somewhere and I won’t let you in.” He was still watching us.

We wouldn’t tell him where our bikes were parked (I seriously had visions of him calling a squad to search the area and confiscate all our bikes), and after we got everything put in one bag, Sam waited while I took the kids through the metal detector and the scanner.

We also had to pull out our First Aid Kit (it had scissors in it) and a pocketknife the x-ray machine picked up. I seriously just tossed them back to Sam and he put them in the bag we were leaving behind anyway, even though the grumpy guard said he just had to see the scissors and then we could take them in since it was a First Aid Kit. Now he was trying to be helpful?

Once we were through we had to sit on a bench and wait for the rest of our “party”. The kids and I talked quietly, and I was so mad I warned them that if they wouldn’t let dad back in we would demand a refund and we’d leave. They weren’t too happy about it, but understood.

Luckily, it didn’t come to that. Whether he decided to take a break, or was forced to, the security guard wasn’t on duty when Sam returned for his trip through the metal detector.

Hallelujah.

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Despite our less-than-ideal experience entering the tour, we somehow managed to time things just right to get a private tour of the power plant. As we passed groups of 40 or more people inside the building, we were a little shocked we got that lucky. Our tour guide, Rebekah, was fantastic. She was patient with the kids, answered questions, asked questions, and generally was just laid back and easy going. It was perfect.

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After our 30 minute tour, we headed outside to walk on the dam (which you can do for free). It’s pretty crazy how tall it is!

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Half the dam is on the Arizona side, and half on Nevada so they have a clock on both sides to show the local time. My kids loved crossing the line and suddenly being and hour different, and then turning around and walking right back to Pacific Time. It’s the little things.

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We didn’t stay too long because we knew we still had to ride back. It was a little tiring, but our kids pulled through and managed to make it all the way back to the truck. The view of Lake Meade from the trail was just amazing, especially as it was getting close to sunset. To top off the ride, Sam drove the car down the hill to the campground while the kids and I coasted (Faster Mommy! Faster!) down the paved trail between the trail head and the campground.

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Although it was a very long day we had a great time. Even with our bad security experience, we enjoyed the tour and the experience of seeing such a great piece of architecture! We’d just recommend driving in, or planning ahead in advance what you bring with you!

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National Parks Nevada New Mexico Oregon Utah Virginia

From Virginia’s Luray Caverns to Oregon’s Lava River Cave, and 4 caves in between

We might have a cave obsession. Check out the ones we've visited East coast to West coast!

As we were waiting for our tour to start in the Lehman Caves, Sam and I started discussing how many caves we had actually been to in the last year. We started counting and realized this was our fourth is just the last year! Not only that, the locations of these caves ranged from Virginia to New Mexico and even into Nevada.

The best part is that each cave is unique and we learn something new with each cave we visit. Stalactites (they hold tight to the ceiling), stalagmites (they are mighty to the earth), columns, cave bacon, drapery, flowstone all became words that were familiar and part of our vocabulary.

Our kids can now easily identify these formations and love to refer to the joining of a stalagmite and stalactite as a “stalag-marriage”. Technically its called a column, but their version is much more fun.

Here’s a rundown on the caves we’ve visited to date and what we thought about them:

Luray Caverns, Virginia

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This cave is privately owned in Virginia, and the first cave in our series. Being privately held, Luray doesn’t have exactly the same rules for the preservation of the cave. They do a great job, but the different rules allow for the existence of The Stalactite Organ. This very interesting instrument is created by locating cave features that sound a particular note when struck. Small actuators (hammers) gently strike the cave feature when the associated key is pressed, and the notes sound throughout the cave. During our tour, we stood quietly in front of the organ while a few musical pieces were played on the organ. This musical experience made Luray Caverns a unique experience.

Carlsbad Caverns National Park, New Mexico

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We wrote a blog post about this already, but in short, when people ask our kids what their favorite place is Carlsbad is usually in the top 3. We LOVED it. A couple of points to reiterate:

  • Walk down the natural entrance and take the elevator back up. The walk down is awesome.
  • Get the audio tour wand for your kids. And one for you in case they don’t want to share (which ours didn’t).
  • Be prepared for a scrub down if you’ve visited any other caves in the last 6 months as they are trying to avoid the spread of White Nose Syndrome (for the bats!).
  • The bats aren’t there in the winter. 🙁 Sad, I know. They are in Mexico somewhere.
  • There is a spot to eat snacks down near the (closed – just in the off season?) snack shop.

Carlsbad Caverns are not the biggest caves in the USA, but they ARE the most decorated caves. The cave features were plentiful and easy to appreciate.

Timpanogos Caves National Monument, Utah

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Since this cave is located only about 25 minutes from our Lehi House I can’t believe we had never gone before! Once we got into the Jr. Ranger Spirit, we determined this was a must-do during our brief stay in the area while selling our house. Cave tours fill up pretty fast on weekends, but a month before your scheduled date you can call or buy tickets on their website which we did.

Unlike any of the other caves we have visited, this was not located near the visitor center and required a 1 mile hike practically straight up the mountain. It was steep, but paved. You sign up for a time to meet at the visitor center and then your cave tour starts 1.5 hours later. I was thinking, “wow! That’s a really long time to hike only 1 mile” and yet, we made it to the top with only about 10 minutes to spare. The kids really did take quite a while to hike, but we had had friends, grandparents, and my sister hiking with us so it made the journey fun.

Timpanogos is known for its helictite formations as there is a room completely full of them! These are fun because as my kids stated once, they look like “Medusa’s hair” all curly, squiggly, and coming straight out of the wall due to water pressure.

Lehman Caves, Great Basin National Park, Nevada

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Lehman Caves is located within Great Basin National Park and run by the National Park Service. We loved our tour guide and she gave some great information about the formations as well as the history. She was also super patient with our kids who HAD to be at the front of the group and pepper her with questions and “did you know?” statements.

I always think its fun when you can see the natural entrance, or where the original discoverers entered the cave for the first time. This is a medium-sized cave with a couple of larger caverns as well as some tighter tunnel like passageways. We learned about shield formations is this cave as it was the first one we’d been to that had any. This cave is not strenuous in the slightest, so they don’t allow water, backpacks, or anything at all in the caves during the tours.

Oregon Caves National Monument

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Oregon Caves fall a bit in the middle ground of our cave experiences. It’s smaller and less decorated than Carlsbad, but a longer journey than Lehman and Timpanogos Caves. There is both a height and stair agility requirement to enter the caves, and Cara barely passed the height and rocked the stair test.

In one of the rooms of the caves, they used to tap on the formations to play music. They don’t do that anymore, but our guide did play some stalactite music recorded in Luray Caverns. It was kind of neat to have been in Luray Caverns and heard the music played in person. The Oregon caves are cold caves, and we were glad to have brought our coats, gloves, and hats.

A lodge is present at the caves as well, and a diner style restaurant that serves delicious milkshakes and burgers. While working on the kids Junior Ranger workbooks that the stream that flows from the cave flows right through the dining room of the lodge and out the other side. The workbook also guided us to find some significant historical facts about the early access to the caves.

Bend Lava Tubes, Oregon

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The Lava tubes are different from our other caves, in that it isn’t strictly a cave that grows formations. The cave is an empty lava tube that is gradually filling in with sand. (We’ve already done a Wandering Update video on this. Check it out!)

The entrance is large, and though the cave varies in size along it’s length, it never constricts to the level that the other caves did. Walking the middle section of the tube was a little like walking in an abandoned subway tunnel complete with massive domed sections. This is definitely a place to bring a bright flashlight: Our super, crazy, bright flashlight barely lit the top of the larger sections. Both lanterns and flashlights are available for rent at the cave entrance.

There’s some things we’ve learned along the way. Our kids love it when we don’t have a guide, but those caves are usually less decorated and exciting for the adults. Audio tours are better than live tour guides in their opinions. Also – how the caves are lit plays a huge roll in how we see them. Looking over our pictures, my favorites are from Luray Cavers where the lighting was excellently done.

We defnitely have more caves on our list to visit! Lava Beds, Lassen Volcanic National Monument, and some in Idaho just for starters. While not crazy spelunkers, we do enjoy ourselves a good jaunt underground!

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Hiking National Parks Nevada Outdoor Adventures Video

Skiing a Glacier in Great Basin National Park – Nevada

We had plans to stay at a lake between Bryce Canyon & Cedar Breaks that fell through due to lack of Verizon signal, so with a couple of extra days before we needed to be back to Salt Lake for a photography workshop we decided to detour to Great Basin National Park. This had been on our list, but we had thought there wouldn’t be time. Good thing we are nothing but flexible.

When We Visited: July 2014
Ages of Kids: 8, 6, 4
Tips: Fill up on gas & groceries before heading out. This park is in the middle of nowhere on the border of Utah/Nevada and gas is expensive and groceries are hard to find. Local residents of the surrounding little towns drive an hour to two hours to go grocery shopping (crazy!).

When deciding what to do while we were in the park, I really wanted to go hiking. REAL hiking. The kind where you actually sweat and the next day you are sore and tired but you feel awesome because you showed that trail who was boss. Finding a glacier at the top of the mountain we calculated out the distance for a round trip and came up with just close to 5 miles. Next we just had to pitch it to the kids.

“Seriously mom? There’s SNOW up there?” Andrew asked skeptically.
“Yup. All the time. It never really melts,” I answered. “A glacier is a slow moving pile of snow & ice that carves its way down the mountain. You want to go see it? It’ll be the longest hike we’ve ever done.”
“Yes!!” All three kids answered at the same time.

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It was magical. The hike was great, but watching my kids scramble all over this snow in July was exhilerating. Andrew took off by himself, while Cara and Rachel stuck a little closer to Sam & I. Sam managed to step his way up the hill in a way that Cara and I could follow pretty easily in his footsteps. We threw snowballs, the kids slid down on their backsides, and we generally had a good time goofing off. THEN Sam started skiing down the glacier on his feet. Immediately all the kids wanted in on the action and one by one, we helped them know where to put their feet and we slip-slid down the snow together.

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There are a lot of great things about Great Basin National Park. The campground was clean and nice, Lehman Caves were very interesting (we learned about shield formations), the Bristlecone Pines were majestic, the kids earned a Jr. Ranger Badge, we went on an evening hike, and we even had ice cream in their on site cafe. We had a great weekend, but I think all of us will remember Great Basin National Park as the place where we went skiing in July.

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Nevada Video

Wandering Update: Jess Almost Has a Heart Attack in the Ruby Mountains – Nevada

Wandering Update - Jess Almost Has a Heart Attack in the Ruby Mountains. Watch our video of the descent down out of the mountains!
Last week we spent 2 nights at Angel Lake high in the Ruby Mountains. It was beautiful and surprising given that generally our excursions across Nevada on I-80 are done as quickly as possible due to the lack of scenery. The Ruby Mountains, however, are definitely not lacking in scenery. Located south of Wells, foraging into these hills is definitely worth the time and effort if you can manage it. The only downside to this beautiful place is the drive up there. Located at nearly 8500 feet elevation, the road to get there is windy, twisty, and there are seriously NO guardrails. I really almost had a heart attack. Once we got to to the top (and were all still in one piece) I spent some of the next two days dreading the drive back down. I had visions of our brakes giving out and us careening over the edge to our deaths. Luckily, no such thing happened, and the trip down was pretty uneventful. Lucky for you, we made a video of our descent. Check it out!   The kids mention in the video that one of their favorite things was to hike to the waterfall. We also spent an afternoon swimming in the fairly frigid (yet quite refreshing) Angel Lake. Someday maybe we’ll even add a fishing pole to our arsenal of gear and catch us some dinner while we are at it. Angel Lake_06 Angel Lake_22 Angel Lake_32 As you can see the scenery is quite breathtaking. My kids (and Sam!) were fairly impressed with my impromptu hike to the top of the waterfall as well. I’m pretty sure Andrew was just jealous as scrambling into dangerous places is one of his favorite past times. We definitely enjoyed this trip and look forward to the next time we get to visit this amazing places!