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Arkansas National Parks On the Water

A Canoeing Service Project on the Buffalo National River, Arkansas

The morning we left Hot Springs National Park, we made a quick decision to take the long way to Bentonville and drive past the Buffalo National River. The drive through the backroads was beautiful, and we were rewarded with an empty campground at Tyler Bend. We were startled to discover that we had great Verizon, and started asking ourselves how long we could manage to stay.

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After the fairly crowded campground at Hot Springs, we really appreciated the space we had to enjoy. We found our way to the river and explored a small section our first evening there.DSCF4800

The kids worked on a Junior Ranger Badge the next morning, and we found a short hike to enjoy as well. With time in Texas still on our mind, we were blown away by the beauty of the hills and the river. We very quickly began to wonder if there was a reasonable way to get ourselves onto the river.

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While Junior Rangering, Jess discovered a service project had been organized for the very next day with the intent of cleaning up a 7 mile section of the Buffalo River’s 150 miles. Despite an expired reservation date, we called and were accepted into the project.

We left that evening after only one night in our empty campground and headed upriver to the Ozark Campground. Our project started at Pruitt Landing (just a few road miles away) and we wanted to be situated close for convenience. The ranger assured us that we would have no trouble pulling a 28ft Airstream down the gravel road into Ozark.

The ranger didn’t happen to mention that the highway to the campground was under serious construction, and that the steep gravel entrance road would present a 4 wheel drive worthy challenge. After cresting the summit we briefly re-evaluated our lives, and somehow decided to continue down the hill to the campground. We encountered similarly steep grades as we crept down the road and miraculously didn’t meet any cars on the narrow road.

We really should have taken pictures of our entertaining experience, but we were focused on remaining alive. We did make it into the campground fine (and back out two nights later), but I would not recommend this campground with a similar rig unless you REALLY wanted to stay right there and have sufficient intestinal fortitude.

Anyway, back to the project…

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We left the Airstream at the Ozark campground and arrived at Pruitt Launch with suitable clothes, sandals, and water, snacks, and lunch. A local canoe outfitter was generous enough to supply canoes, vests, and paddles for volunteers, and we spread ourselves between two of them. After some short instruction, the group headed off down the river.

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We were immediately struck with the incredible beauty of this river.  As we slowly scanned the riverbanks for garbage, we had plenty of time to appreciate the views.

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About halfway down our planned section, we made a stop for lunch at the convergence of the Little Buffalo. Happy to be out of the boats, the kids stacked some rocks, swam a bit, and ate our packed lunch.

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We spent some lunchtime getting to know some of the other volunteers. Nearly all of them lived in the immediate area and frequented the river. The group was mostly older couples, and they welcomed our young family with three kids.

We also dropped off some of the larger trash items we had collected. At this point, that consisted of a collection of car tires, a smashed steel drum, and an old metal kitchen stove. One of the locals planned to come in by land with an ATV to haul that out. Emptying our canoes turned out to be a good idea, as the second half of our trip filled our canoes back up with newly removed garbage.

Rachel and I gained the honor of paddling this huge semi-truck tire out. Spotted by Cara, this tire was embedded in the rocks and gravel on the riverbank, and even had some roots growing through it. We dug it out, and wrestled it onto the canoe. It was filled with rocks and gravel, but I managed to empty most of that out during a portage just downstream.

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Along with the big stuff, we picked up plenty of smaller trash. Most of this was picked off the riverbanks, stuck in bushes and trees. We were appalled at how much garbage there was, and asked the locals about it.

A little of the trash was from river travelers, but the bulk of the larger garbage was the result of local flooding that washed things out of yards and down river. In spite of all the garbage we picked up, don’t get the idea that the river was a garbage heap. It was beautiful, and finding trash really took a sharp eye.

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By the time we reached our takeout at Hasty, we were only half done with the job. We had to carry all the tires and garbage up the steep bank to the parking lot. The picture below on the right was our garbage haul (with our one huge truck tire), and the picture on the left is a picture of just SOME of the tires from our group. By the time we had it all hauled up and loaded onto the truck, the pile was shockingly huge.

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The service project done, we shuttled cars and then made our way to the Ozark Cafe in Jasper for some well earned burgers and milkshakes.

Service opportunities are difficult to find while traveling full time, so we like to take advantage of them while we can This experience turned the Buffalo River into one of our all time favorite places, and we are already scheming how we can go back and paddle more of it!

Categories
Backpacking Biking California Hiking Mommy Diaries On the Water Outdoor Adventures Rock Climbing Utah

Join Me at REI’s Outessa Summit This Summer!

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In the last two years of traveling we really haven’t made an effort to attend any conferences or workshops. Pre-travel I would attend at least one photography workshop a year, and Sam would often have 2-3 tech conferences he attended. All part of keeping up our skills, networking, and getting inspiration for new projects or ideas. Conferences were also a way to get some dedicated “me time” in and I’ve missed that a lot!

This year we’ve decided to remedy our imbalance. I’m feeling a little stagnant and definitely ready for a weekend away where I can focus on my needs and projects without guilt or interruption. There’s just something about have at least 24 quiet, magnificent hours all to myself that lends itself to increased satisfaction and productivity when I get home. Sam already has a few tech conferences he’s been missing so we’ve added those to the calendar, but I wasn’t sure what I wanted.

As I searched around for blogger conferences or something along those lines (since photography isn’t my main focus at this point) a friend mentioned REI’s Outessa Summit. I knew instantly I wanted to attend.  After some discussion with Sam about logistics, travel schedules, and plans for the rest of the year we both agreed that this would be really good for me.  Even better, through some other connections I was able to talk with the co-founder, Julia Stamps Mallon, and volunteer as a photographer/blogger for the event in exchange for discounted admission. I’m looking forward to an awesome weekend of outdoor recreation and sharing it with all of you!

Outessa Summit is a women’s only weekend getaway at either Kirkwood, CA or Powder Mountain, UT. With over 200 activities to choose from, professional guides and mentors, plenty of healthy, fulfilling food, and beautiful mountain scenery I’m completely stoked for this event! I’ve signed up for the Powder Mountain event that will take place from September 9 -11, 2016 in Eden, UT. They are also setting up “Camp Outessa” where you can bring your own camping gear to sleep, but they provide showers (most appreciated!) & bathrooms.

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After registering, you’ll be able to log in and sign up for classes. While I would love to mountain bike ALL day, each type of sport is limited to one class so that everyone gets a chance to participate. I think this limitation also encourages women to sign up for activities they normally wouldn’t try. Have you always wanted to try rock climbing but don’t know how? What about trail running? Nervous about backpacking, kayaking, or even just how to cook around a campfire? They seriously have classes for all of the above!

I’ve signed up for an intermediate rock climbing class, intermediate mountain biking, GRID foam rolling, making healthy granola bars and snacks, a night trail run (Hello! NOT a runner!) as well as an ElliptoGO class. My goals are to hone and develop my skills for activities I already love while trying out some new sports as well.

After breaking into classes for most of the day, everyone comes back for a family-style dinner in the evening, campfire chats, and s’mores.

I’ll admit I was a little hesitant at first about the “women only” designation. I’ve never been one to need a girl’s night out, or feel more comfortable hanging out with my girlfriends rather than my family. Sam is, and always will be, my favorite choice for an outdoor adventure partner, even if it sometimes is logistically inconvenient for both of us to be away. However, recently I was able to go on a ride with a friend from Lehi who loves to mountain bike, as well as hike with Alyssa from Kidproject.org (and all of ours kids!). I’m learning there’s something powerful and comforting in finding like-minded girlfriends who love to be outdoors as much as I do.  So even though it may be a little outside my comfort zone, I’m looking forward to making connections with other women like me – those who love and live in the outdoors as much as they possibly can.

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Event Details:

REI Outessa Summit: Powder Mountain, Utah
Friday September 9 @ 8am – Sunday September 11 @ 5pm
Registration Link

REI Outessa Summit: Kirkwood, CA
Friday August 19 @ 8am – Sunday, August 21 @ 5pm
Registration Link

Categories
Featured Destination Florida National Parks On the Water

Canoeing Nine Mile Pond in Everglades National Park

Canoeing Nine Mile Pond in Everglades National ParkVisiting the Everglades has been a travel goal for some time. Despite setting a goal to make it there, we had somehow managed to not spend much time researching our options.

We planned to spend a few days there in our usual slow travel style. Our early research indicated that we should get good verizon service at the Flamingo campground, and that would provide the needed opportunity to work.

Upon arrival I set about trying to configure my assortment of antennas and booster technology to secure the expected signal. Try as I might, I could not manage any usable signal. A few tests from the truck (also outfitted with a booster) in sections of the Flamingo area also failed to find a usable signal.

Without good signal, our visit was going to be much shorter. Our real goal of the visit was to get out and experience the everglades from a boat. There were boat tours available, but what really interested us was a canoe rental. Rentals were available right there in the marina, but also at a lake back up the road called Nine Mile Pond. This pond contained a canoe trail marked by poles along the way, and promised paddling through mangrove forests as well as the open glade.

We picked this option, and set about making it happen. We ended up renting two canoes from the concessionaire near the Flamingo Visitor Center. Unfortunately, a large group beat us to the rentals already located at the pond, so we paid an extra $45 to have two canoes transported up there. Frustrating, but worth it.

We arrived at the pond with life jackets and paddles, and retrieved the canoes from the concessionaire. In just a minute we were in the water, paddling across a small lake to the start of the trail.

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As we followed the trail out of the lake, we immediately plunged into the mangroves. We became immediately grateful for two things. First, the trail markers. All long the canoe trail were poles stuck in the ground. Each marker bore a number which could help us choose the right direction as we paddled. Without those markers, it would have been impossible to find our way through (or out!) of those mangrove forests.

Canoeing in the Everglades

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Padding through mangroves is beautiful, but the paddling trail was often narrow and often turned quite sharply. Thus, the second thing we became grateful for: mangrove roots. The roots of the mangrove trees grow out from the trunk of the tree above the waterline, and grow outward before plunging down into the water. The result of this root growth pattern is a natural ‘bumper’ of sorts that made paddling a little easier. When we missed a turn or edged too close to the trees, the natural edge created by the roots prevented us from paddling too far under the trees.

The mangrove forest eventually broke apart, and we found ourselves in more open sections of the glade. Glades are sunny, open areas in a forest. The Everglades are named for this, with plenty of open glade areas that stretch far into the distance. At the midpoint of our paddle, we came into a large glade that was a wonderful cross between a meadow and a lake. The area was covered with water shallow enough to allow grasses to grow. From near the waterline, it looked as though the meadow was grassy and solid enough to walk across it. Instead, we got to paddle through it.

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The meadow contained a shortcut that allowed us to cut our paddle in half. We took the shortcut and had a snack, and then headed continued along the trail back to the truck.

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It is hard to describe just how beautiful and unique this adventure was. At times like this, I’m really grateful that Jess captures so many wonderful scenes during our adventures. As you consider my description and compare it with her pictures, I’m sure you’ll agree.

I’m reasonably good paddling a canoe, but Jess struggles when conditions are difficult. On the second half of our paddle, She really hit her stride, and was navigating through the mangroves like a pro. I even had the chance to teach a few new paddling strokes to Rachel, who was in the front of my boat. Cara sat in the middle between Rachel and I, and took turns paddling in the more open spots.

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The shortcut made our paddle the perfect length at just under two hours. With that adventure completed, we headed back to pick up the Airstream and head back into the land of signal. I look forward to a time where better timing (and/or better signal) allow us to visit the Everglades longer. Despite our short visit, I cherish the adventure we had.