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Michigan WanderLog

Michigan’s Upper Peninsula (aka The UP)

Our Travel Log for Michigan

Travel Dates: August 7-17, 2015

We left the Dells, and arrived in Michigan’s Upper Peninsula unceremoniously on Friday afternoon, August 14, 2015 after driving up from Walmart down near Green Bay, Wisconsin. Totally ignored the time zone change to Eastern Time as we searched along the west shore of Lake Michigan for a place to stay for the weekend.

We finally ended up in Pioneer Trail County Park in Gladstone and snagged a rustic camping spot for the weekend. Played some disc golf, got laundry done, went grocery shopping, and made it to church.

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Bright and early Monday morning we headed farther to Pictured Rocks National Lakeshore. We stopped at Muldoon’s Pasties & Gifts in Munising on the way up for lunch and thoroughly enjoyed our first pasty. Delicious, especially the dessert pies.

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Found a beautiful boondocking spot south of Pictured Rocks National Lakeshore and spent a few, slightly frustrating days exploring the park with all the tourists on vacation.

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Headed back west, we spent two nights at Marquette Tourist County Park. The town is super cute & Sam and I managed to squeeze in a bike date to get ice cream at Frosty Treats. We also rode out to Presque Isle with the kids and hiked a bit around the peninsula/island. Super pretty. On our way out we ate at Jean -Kay’s pasties & subs and enjoyed our first vegetarian pasty.

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Drove to the Keweenaw Peninsula where we had reservations at Linden County Park so we could send packages ahead of us. The park isn’t amazing, but the kids enjoyed the swim beach.

11261374_860672233968730_479493537_nWe day tripped up to Calumet and the Keweenaw National Historic Site Visitor Center to earn our 74th Jr. Ranger Badge and enjoyed learning about the history of the area.

Our third and final pasty taste test was at Roy’s where their chicken & broccoli pastie totally took the gold medal. We also ventured into Hungarian Falls and were disappointed the reports of swimming in the waterfalls proved to be false, but had fun throwing rocks into the pool and hunting for frogs.

Moving farther west, our next stop was the Porcupine Mountains. We woke up super early to try and get to the Union Bay Campground for a first come, first served spot. Unfortunately, there was no Verizon signal anywhere and we weren’t very impressed with the campground anyway.

Instead, we decided to have Sam take the day off and we went hiking! After a quick lunch in the Visitor Center parking lot, we drove up to Summit Peak and hiked the loop ending with the lookout tower.  It was beautiful and only about 5.5 miles of pretty gentle grade. We loved it.

11326513_1517456441878056_1670842139_nIt was still only about 3:30pm so we drove over to the Lake of the Clouds overlook to check that out. Super pretty views, but all I could think about was the hike along the ridge that would be EPIC. So many back country trails and campsites at this park.

Lastly, we grabbed this pull out spot next to the side of the road and the kids played on the beach while Sam and I cooked up a grilled sausage and pasta dinner. Afterwards we had our weekly Family Night on the beach, followed by treats and then about an hour to Walmart in Ironwood, MI for the night.

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That wraps up (for now) our tour of Michigan’s Upper Peninsula. It really is a different place than “the mitten” with absolutely gorgeous views of Lake Superior, and more back country hiking than I expected (not that my expectations were high to begin with!).

Next up we went back to Wisconsin to backpack on the Apostle Islands!

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Minnesota

The 2nd Annual Midwest Corn Alps Paragliding Competition – Cosmos, MN

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We recently had the opportunity to attend the 2nd Annual Midwest Corn Alps Paragliding Competition out in Cosmos, MN. Last time we rolled through Minnesota Anna from SDI Paragliding reached out and said she’d love to meet up if we ever came through again. She’s a total travel lover and someday would love to set out with her family so naturally she follows many full time families on Instagram. This time around we spent a good 2-3 weeks trying to coordinate a time to get in some flying lessons or a tandem flight. Something always came up, but I swore we would make it work!

Well, we took long enough that eventually Anna tentatively invited us out to the competition they were having the following week and it lined up perfectly with our exodus from Minneapolis. Sold. They even had a base camp set up on one of the flier’s farms and we could bring the Airstream and camp next to a barn. Awesome.

The evening we got there, some of the pilots went out for an evening flight and we were able to tag along and watch them go up.

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Because there are no hills or mountains in Minnesota, the pilots are attached to a winch on a truck and then pulled up into the air. Its pretty fascinating! Anna’s father, Steve, has also designed a pretty spectacular winch and sells them as part of their business.

The group of participants – a good looking bunch!

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Anna and her family (she’s in orange):

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Each morning around 10-11am they would have a pilots meeting and discuss the challenge for the day. There was a whole lot of talk about wind speeds, distances and a lot of numbers on a white board that I didn’t understand but everyone else nodded and put the correct info into their flight computers.

After that we all caravanned out to the long, empty farm roads and one by one, the pilots were pulled into the air. Once the pilots had released the cable (or pinned out) the truck would swing around and come back for another pilot.

The day we watched was super hot and humid, but the kids were troopers! Sam even got to tag along in the truck with Steve as he pulled a pilot up into the air.
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After a quick trip into Hutchinson after lunch for some frozen yogurt and air conditioning at the local library, we headed back to base camp and got set up for a tandem flight for Sam and I. One of the groups participating in the event was ChicagoParagliding and they offered to help get us up into the air.

On a tandem flight we were strapped to an experienced pilot who did all the work of flying, all we had to do was run until we achieved lift off. I wasn’t so good at running and actually had to try twice to get up – eating dirt the first time as we crashed landed back to the ground.

It was pretty amazing (and slightly terrifying) to be up that high! Soaring up above all the farmlands was fairly surreal and since my pilot, Emmanuel, did all the work, I could just sit back and enjoy. The best way I can describe the view is its like looking out an airplane window on take off, but no airplane.

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I loved watching the passion these guys have for paragliding. Talking to Anna was so much fun because I could tell she really loves what her family does and enjoys sharing that passion with others. It was also amazing to watch this community of para-gliders interact with each other. There was so much camaraderie and fun even in the midst of a competition. Reminded me a bit of our traveling community and how much I love it.

We definitely had a great time, and loved making some new friends in the process. If you are ever near Minneapolis and are looking for something awesome – hit up SDI paragliding for some lessons. You seriously won’t be disappointed!

2nd Annual Midwest Corn Alps XC Competition in Cosmos MN. Sam and I even got up for a tandem flight!

Categories
Biking Minnesota

Mountain Biking (Off Road Cycling) in Minneapolis, MN

Urban Mountain Biking in Minneapolis was surprisingly awesome. The scoop on the parks we checked out and what we loved!Let’s start this post by saying we were aware of the love affair Minnesotans have for road cycling. They often plow the bike paths before the roads and ride (commute to work) all winter long. Minneapolis has some of the best (and arguably the most – sorry Portland!) bike paths we’ve ever seen.

What we didn’t know was that this love affair extended to off road cycling as well. I was amazed to visit two different areas around Minneapolis that had some really great mountain bike parks for all levels. We took our kids and had a blast!

Rachel and Andrew generally ride ahead with one parent while the parent on the cyclocross bike hangs back with Cara who is much, much slower. Sam and I will trade off who does which, but its definitely more a ride for the kids than for us and that’s fine. Instilling a love a mountain biking in my kids while they are young will pay out later when they are older I’m sure.

Lebanon Hills Regional Park (pdf of the trails)
Rachel Lebanon HillsLebanon Hills Regional Park
is located in Dakota County on the south side of downtown Minneapolis. We camped across the road in the campground and Sam and I were both able to bike over to the trails. Since we wanted the kids to conserve their energy we opted to drive over when we took them.

Cara is still a pretty novice mountain biker and hates anything with “bumps” or rocks. The beginner trails are pretty smooth but she still threw a tantrum and refused to ride any farther. I’m pretty sure the whole park heard her yell how mean of I mom I was. I talked her through it and once she got going she didn’t want to leave opting to ride another small loop when given the choice. See? Being “mean” pays off sometimes.

Lebanon Hills also has a fun skills park in a small area where people can practice going over or down different obstacles (logs, bridges, bumps and rollers, etc). Our kids had a lot of fun doing laps around the skills park both before and after we rode the trails.

The only downside we found to this park is that the return path for some of the more advanced trails is the beginner loop. On a busier Saturday, Cara was frustrated at having to frequently pull over at let more advanced riders pass her.

Website for just the mountain biking park.

Elm Creek Park Reserve (pdf of the trails)

Cara Elm Creek

Elm Creek Park Reserve is on the northwest side of the Twin Cities area. We tried this trail twice and loved it both times. The first was a quick spin around one of the loops on the day of the great bike fiasco. The second time was after we had left Minneapolis only to return for a family event and a meet up with some other Airstream families a few weeks later. We were camped at the KOA only 15 minutes away from Elm Creek and I desperately wanted to get back over here before we left. I’m so glad we did!

We took the kids on the beginner loop and they did great! Smooth, easy trails and even though Rachel ended up with a bee sting mid-ride she toughed it out and even did another lap.

The following morning I snuck over for a longer ride on one of the intermediate routes. The trail wound through a lot of trees – some of them so close I thought I was going to clip a handlebar. For all the technical sections, there was an easier path around and I ended up clocking a little over 8 miles.

It was good, but I think for more advanced riders the trails at Lebanon were more fun. Elm Creek definitely has the easier of the two parks for beginners and it was definitely less crowded.

With how much Minnesotans love their bikes, I’m sure there are more trails in the area we’ll have to discover next time through. Both parks were well marked with trail maps, difficult levels and direction arrows so it was obvious which direction you should be riding on the one-way trails.

I’m grateful we were able to get some great biking in a place where I was sure there would be nothing and a total bonus for the kids who had a ton of fun and gained more confidence every time we rode!

Categories
Featured Destination Minnesota National Parks

5 Family Friendly Activities at Voyageurs National Park

Voyageurs National Park, Minnesota isn’t on the way to anywhere. You have to actually try to visit this northern Minnesota park and I had been looking forward to it for quite sometime. Our experience here was relaxing, fascinating from a U.S. History perspective and so much fun.  I’m so happy we spent the time to drive up and stay a few days.

This park is named after the French trappers who roamed the backwater lakes and rivers in large canoes transporting goods for various trading companies in the late 17th and early 18th centuries. The international boundary between the U.S. and Canada closely follows the voyageurs classic route along the park’s northern border. With plenty of paddling routes, islands, hikes, lakes, boat in campsites, and some of the most amazing park rangers I’ve ever met, this park has hit our list of favorites!

When We Visited: July 27-30, 2015

Ages of Kids: 9, 7, 5

Where We Stayed: There’s not a campground IN the National Park but there are two options just outside the boundaries. We stayed at the Woodenfrog State Forest Campground (review on Campendium) but there’s also the Ash River Campground at the other end of the park (Campendium link). The volunteer we talked to said that Ash River was more of an open field and hardly ever fills up.

We spent four days exploring this area of Minnesota and loved it. There are a few activities that take some advanced planning, but many you can do in a few hours. I’d recommend at least staying overnight (if not more) to get the most out of your time here. If we had been a bit more prepared with food and gear we would have been tempted to overnight out on the peninsula or on one of the islands!

Here are our top 5 suggestions of things to do in the park:

1. Participate in the North Canoe Program

We drove into the Kabetogama Visitor Center our first drizzly morning to get our Jr. Ranger Books and were a little surprised to see rangers dressed in odd clothing come out of the backroom and start talking in French accented English. I was fascinated and we hung around long enough to enjoy the ranger program and learn a few things about the park.

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The kids and I loved it so much, we opted to drive (with Sam this time) 45 minutes down to the Ash River VC to try and participate there the following morning. As a participant in the North Canoe program, you are a prospective Voyageur and are given a rundown of your responsibilities, attire, and on a good weather day – you pile into the canoe with 10 other people and actually paddle. Unfortunately, it was still too stormy to paddle, but the programs were different enough that although we did it twice it was still a lot of fun.

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I would definitely call ahead and schedule this if you know the dates you will be there. The Visitor Centers do the program on different days of the week, so make sure to check their schedules. Kabetogama ScheduleAsh River, Schedule Rainy Lake Schedule

2. Go on a Hike

The best hikes on the mainland are down by the Ash River Visitor Center. The rangers told us both the Blind Ash Bay and Sullivan Bay Trails hike out to great overlooks. We opted for Blind Ash Bay as it was a little longer and the ranger said they had recently seen some wild blueberries and raspberries along the trail.

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It was probably the slowest 4 miles we have ever hiked due to our frequent stopping to pick the delicious fruit. The scenery also reminded me a bit of the Pacific Northwest with a mix of birch and pine trees, plus some ferns and mushrooms growing in the shade. We loved it.

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If you take a water taxi over to the peninsula (there’s a list of commercial services in the Park Newspaper) Locater Lake sounded like a great option as a 4 mile out and back to the lake. If you are super adventures, reserve a canoe from the visitor center before you leave and paddle around Locator Lake once you’ve hiked out there.

3. Stay in a Campground

We stayed in the Woodenfrog State Forest Campground on the mainland, but there are also quite a few back country sites – both on the peninsula and on the islands in Lake Kabetogoma. You need a permit for any of them (and a water craft to get you there), and I imagine some are more hard to schedule than others. We did check out one of the canoe-in sites on an island and it was pretty awesome. My kids said they were ready to move in, but we
‘ll save that for the next trip!

4. Earn a Jr. Ranger Badge & Make a Necklace

 The Voyageurs Junior Ranger badge was fairly easy and fun to do. Both my older kids were able to complete the book on their own, and Cara had an easier book that was perfect for her age level! As a bonus you can also earn the Night Explorer Patch – just ask at the visitor center for the separate book (we earned ours last year in Cedar Breaks National Monument in Utah).

Both visitor centers we visited had great kid’s stations with coloring, bead necklace making and other activities. Our kids even made necklaces and gave them to the ranger & volunteers as a thank you for the awesome program!

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5. Get Out on the Water

Voyageurs National Park is mostly used by those in a boat. We saw SO many vehicles with boat trailers in every parking lot. There are houseboat campsites, lots of fishing, tour boats, rental canoes and kayaks – you name it! We rented canoes from Arrowhead Lodge & Resort which was just down the hill from our campground. We went early in the morning as the wind was going to pick up later – but it was still a bit of a difficult paddle. Despite the wind, we thoroughly enjoyed paddling out to the islands and exploring the campsites.

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Also- we found out that the park service rents canoes on some of the inland lakes on the peninsula! We thought about taking a water taxi over to Locater Lake (about a 2 mile hike in) and renting a canoe there to paddle around, but opted for the closer paddle around the islands instead. You reserve the canoe at the visitor center and they give you a key. Once you get back, you just turn your key in! How cool would that be?

This park has so many amazing possibilities for exploration and learning about history. My absolute favorite part was the interactive North Canoe program – I feel like we learned SO much about the Voyageurs. These were truly amazing boys & men that worked long, hard days paddling and transporting goods up and down these northern rivers. Forever we will always remember that as Voyageurs “You must protect ze goods for ze compan-e!”

Road School Add On: I’ll give a bonus #6 just because I’m that in love with this National Park. In the Visitor Center we were introduced to these two books:

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Broken Blade is a story about a boy who becomes a Voyageur after his father dies. As part of their road schooling I told my kids they had to read The Broken Blade and now they are begging to read Wintering as well. There’s a Kindle Version of the first, but I think we are going to have to order a physical copy of book #2. (Amazon affiliate link)

We are also planning a trip up to Grand Portage National National Monument when we hit the North Shore of Lake Superior. Grand Portage was the meeting place for the Voyageurs to exchange goods from the east for furs from the west, and apparently they had quite the party. I can’t wait to see more of the Ojibwa Native American side to this part of history once we get there!

Categories
WanderLog Wisconsin

Our First Taste of Wisconsin – The Dells

Travel Dates: August 4-6

We left Minneapolis, MN (again) and drove the long 4.5 hours east to the Wisconsin Dells in one day. We decided it was worth the push to get there in one day – and get in late as we knew the RV Park at Mt. Olympus would not be very scenic. The kids had been looking forward to a water park here for at least a year, and since we could add it to the itinerary, we decided we should.

The next two days were spent at Mt. Olympus Water and Theme Park. We had a blast.  The first day we spent the morning at the Waterpark, ate lunch at a cafe, swam some more and made it back to the Airstream for an early dinner. After dinner we went back in until about 8pm and rode the rides.

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The following day we did in reverse. We hitched up the Airstream and drove early over to the Mt. Olympus Parking. We got in first thing and rode the Hades 360 roller-coaster (the lines were at least an hour the day before), and then more Go Karts and our other favorite rides. We went back to the Airstream for lunch, changed into our swimming suits, and Sam stayed to work while I took the kids back in to swim. We stayed at the park until about 5pm, then whipped up a quick dinner in the parking lot and drove a few hours to a Walmart outside of Green Bay, WI for the night.

The next morning, after a frustrating attempt to find someplace to stay in Door County, we abandoned those plans and decided to head north towards the Upper Peninsula of Michigan instead. We feel like Wisconsin totally got the shaft, but we had plans to come back after some time in Michigan.

Next: Michigan’s Upper Peninsula Wrap Up