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Florida State Parks WanderLog

Mountain Biking at Markham Park, Sebastian Inlet State Park, & Highlands Hammock State Park

Travel Dates: January 9 – 21, 2015

As we drove through town on the way to Markham Park, Sam saw signs for a local car wash. With a gleam in his eye, he turned off the road and we went looking for them. The Airstream needed a bath. These fine young people were raising money for Autism. We’d call that a win-win. The kids put their cheerleading skills to good use to wash the high walls of the Airstream and did a fairly decent job of getting her clean. 

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Markham Park and Target Range is a local popular spot. We pulled in to a pretty packed park, full of picnickers, campers, bikers, and RC enthusiasts. From the campground we could also hear the target range and that took some getting used to. Trails super close by, and full hook-ups made for a nice combination though and we settled in for 5 days of riding awesomeness.

Mountain Biking at Markham ParkFrom Instagram:

“Family trail time tonight was awesome. However, @telegramsam and I are both about ready to trade the cyclocross in for another 29er MTB. With trails like this can you really blame us?”

“This downhill board ramp feature might be the scariest thing I have ever ridden. It was fun, and I managed to avoid considering the physics involved whilst enjoying it.”

“This little girl did some good mountain biking today. I finished a loop and found her resting at the pump track, slightly sad but eager to show me the scrape on her right knee. After this sullen moment, she rode the beginner practice loop again and insisted that she do it all by herself.”

“Markham has piles of trails. On a whim, I rode Route 66, a lesser traveled trail. The slick mud, low branches, and deep water holes proved a challenge. I was rewarded by a few of the coolest wood ‘bridges’ of the park. This one was about 4 times longer than visible here. There were cooler places along this and other trails, but both hands were usually required!”

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There are beginner trails, intermediate trails, and some pretty advanced trails as well. All of them are well maintained, and there’s some great man made features along some of the more difficult trails. We quickly got used to the easy trails and graduated to some of the more difficult sections. I loved that for most of the difficult sections there’s a bypass if you don’t feel up to it.

Our kids loved the pump track and were able to ride some of the easier trails. It was nice there was something there for all of us to ride.

“Jess and I managed a trip to the Temple yesterday. In the Temple we deeply study the Gospel of Christ and the purpose of our lives during this earthly experience. I appreciate the perspective that such study and worship provides. “
IMG_20160112_175425After a great 5 days of riding, we made for the coast to try and get one more good body boarding day in before headed north. Unfortunately we were met with some crazy storms at Sebastian Inlet State Park.  
Mega-intense rainstorm one morning knocked out the power, and then the sun then preceded to come out and warm things up, only we couldn’t turn on the A/C and were too terrified of the noseeums to open the windows. Not good.  We got eaten alive by the tiny bugs all day the whole time we were there. While I wished I could have enjoyed the park more, I was too busy scratching my bites. 

Sebastian Inlet State Park_03 Sebastian Inlet State Park_01-1 We did manage one more day on the beach, although the waves were too intense for the kids. Sam was able to catch a good ride, and although I tried, I mostly just ended up with a mouth full of seawater.

“In my study of sand castle building, nothing had been more important to learn about than sand compaction. In particular, not all sand compacts the same. A good indication is the sand on the beach itself. Good sand compacts hard, and allows you to walk just above the waterline without leaving much of a footprint. The sand here at Sebastian Inlet was very soft. My best compaction efforts allowed just a little time to practice today before falling over. I wasn’t able to finish, but I had fun anyway.

I also caught a few waves with a body board, losing one contact lens in the process.”

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There is plenty of wildlife along the inlet and we had fun watching the gulls dive for fish and even saw a few dolphins playing out in the water!
Sebastian Inlet State Park_04@telegramsam has the cutest office mate today. She drew a computer on paper and is sending emails and tagging him on Instagram.”

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After Sebastian Inlet, we ditched our plans to go further up the coast, and headed inland towards the Cypress Swamps instead. In hindsight, I’m so glad we did because they turned out to be one of our favorite parks!

“We have a gap! She pulled it out all by herself and couldn’t contain her giddiness. I just love watching her talk.”

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The Cypress Swamps are more what I thought the Everglades would look like. Lots of brackish water with swampy looking plants. It is quintessential Florida for sure! In the park there are multiple biking and/or hiking trails. We walked these boardwalks a few times, looking for alligators or other wildlife every time.

“We enjoyed an amazing walk yesterday. I caught @jesscurren working to get ‘the shot’ that is now posted on @currentlywandering. For more amazing pictures of our travels, follow both of those accounts! Her camera was about 2 inches above the swamp water here, and I was on careful Croc Watch. No photographers (and no cameras) were harmed in the taking of this picture!” -Sam

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Highlands Hammock SP_02 Highlands Hammock SP_05 Highlands Hammock SP_03We were joined by our friends the Seminoffs whom we had met in Long Key State Park just a few weeks earlier. It was so fun to see and hang out with them again!

“A few days with friends at the park is just what we’ve needed. So glad the @esiminoff family stopped by to see us on their way north to Atlanta, LA, and then New Zealand!! We hooked them up with our study abroad host dad who’s going to show them the Kiwi ropes. I might be a tad bit jealous.” – Jess

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“Around this campfire, we shared fascination. Then dinner. Then incredible discussions of family and faith. And then, naturally, Smores. We have been blessed to be joined for a night by@esiminoff and family as they hustle off to another adventure.

We have been blessed to spend not only one, but two days with@esiminoff and family. They rolled out today to handle logistics for the next leg of their adventures: Exploring New Zealand and Australia. In our pre-kid days, we lived in NZ for four months. Our journey will take us back there, but the time is not yet. Until then, we will enjoy watching their journey!” – Sam

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We had heard good things about the Tram tour, and decided to pay the small fee for the tour. We loaded onto a bus/tram and were taken to sections of the park not accessible by another other means. We went from swamp to grassland, and then back into the swamp land again and were able to see our first Florida alligators!

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“Of the several gators we saw today, this one was the most still. He was clearly comfortable. So also was the turtle, perhaps ignorant that he is a significant food source for the animal he was so casually resting against.” -Sam

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While the campground itself was not amazing (tight spaces, not a whole lot of privacy) we absolutely loved everything else in this park. It was a great

Categories
Florida State Parks WanderLog

The White Sand Beaches of the Emerald Coast

Travel Dates: Dec. 3-13, 2015

We visited the Emerald Coast on our way east to west 2 years ago (blog post about that here) at the beginning of our crazy journey. We drove through this area way too fast and swore we’d come back and stay longer.

This time we wanted to try a different state park so we stayed at Grayton Beach. The campground isn’t right on the water (slightly annoying) but the sites were fairly secluded and it was peaceful.

We had some great beach time, ate at the Airstream food trucks in Seaside and even managed a visit to Santa Claus in nearby Destin.

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We also met some friends at church who are thinking about buying TWO Airstreams (one to sit and live in on the property, one to travel in) so we had them over to get a glimpse of what our life is like.

A new cast iron pan, a bike ride on the nature trail and a beautiful sunset topped off our 6 day stay.

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After leaving Grayton Beach State Park, we drove only about another hour and half towards Panama City Beach. We had visited Saint Andrew’s Park two years ago, but the weather was cold enough we didn’t get to see a lot.

This time the weather was beautiful! We picked up some boogie boards at a surf shop and the kids spent an entire afternoon riding the waves.

Our last body boarding adventure was over a year and a half ago (in southern California), but the kids took right to it. Cara, only 3 last time, picked it right up. With a few minutes of instruction from Rachel, she was catching pretty good rides. The beach here is perfect for kids, with a fully sandy bottom and gentle slope. It was a joy to see them shriek with excitement each time they got a ride.

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We try to not swim at the beach EVERY day (gotta give those swimsuits a chance to dry out!) so  one afternoon we escaped out to the beach for a much needed break. We visited the old turpentine still, carved faces into the sand, and practiced our dune jumping. Rachel was suffering from a bad case of a bad mood, and it translated directly into school struggles. After our afternoon wander, she was doing much better. It always amazes us  how a little wandering improves all of our moods.
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We stayed longer than normal in the last few spots and it was kind of weird. Like we are actually getting caught up on life. A few more weeks of this and we might actually get ahead! We had one last wander down the beach on Sunday afternoon and found this Merry Christmas sandman. A perfect ending to our great stay along the Emerald Coast. 

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Next we head farther southeast into Florida. First stop Tampa, and then Christmas in the Florida Keys!

Categories
Michigan State Parks Video

Announcing the CurrentlyWandering Youtube Channel

YouTube ChannelI am pleased to announce yet another place that you can follow along on your adventures: Our YouTube Channel! We blog about our adventures for detail and philosophical ramblings. We post pictures on our Instagram accounts to share places and short form experiences. We’ve been experimenting with video, and we like the way it allows us to remember places with greater detail and emotion. We love watching old videos and remembering the adventures we captured.

When I say ‘experiment’ with video, I really mean it. I have over 60 videos posted on that channel, but we’ve never said much about it on our other channels. Really, this was a way for me to hide a bit as I experimented with different video and editing styles. I’ve tried and swapped equipment, editing software, and both filming and editing styles. This doesn’t mean I have it dialed in: I will warn you that I’m still not particularly good, and I hope to be improving as I continue.

My most recent video is about a wonderful and unexpected day in the Porcupine Mountains on the Upper Peninsula of Michigan. We had a wonderful day, and I’m happy with how my shooting and editing went. Have a look, and tell me what you think!

My main motivation for capturing video has been mostly as the ‘new’ form of home video. Keeping individual video clips on my phone doesn’t help tell a story. Editing down a video forces me to filter what I captured and attempt to thread it together. I love what we’ve been able to capture, and the benefit it is to us. In the spirit of sharing, my videos are public and you can follow along too, if you like.

I’m slightly behind on editing at the moment, having just begun to edit the video we captured on our Lake Superior Circle Tour. If you subscribe to the channel, you will next see videos about Backpacking in the Apostle Islands and our other adventures as we circle the lake.

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Backpacking Featured Destination Minnesota State Parks

The Camping Spot We Almost Didn’t Find – George H. Crosby Manitou State Park, Minnesota

Backpacking George H Crosby Manitou State Park with Kids

I’m pretty sure we are the only people that leave our Airstream travel trailer in one state park to back country camp in a completely different one. I suppose that doubles up on fees for the night, but if you think about the fact that when a “normal’ person goes camping they are also paying a mortgage (or rent) on a house, our situation sounds a bit more reasonable. Right? Right.

When I spent a few hours planning our trip up Minnesota’s North Shore, I knew we wanted to do some more serious hiking. Inland from the lake are some pretty serious hills (not quite sure this Utah girl can use the term “mountains” out here) with great views and at least some elevation. I picked out a couple of possibilities, but mostly we just left this option open as we weren’t sure when or where we’d have the opportunity.

After leaving Gooseberry Falls State Park, we headed north to Tettegouche, the next park on our list. True to form, the first thing we did was take a trip to the visitor center to check out our options. I talked to the ranger and when I mentioned we were thinking of a serious hike or possibly backpacking in the area, he highly recommended George H. Crosby Manitou State Park. There is no front-country campground, so the park is quiet, peaceful, and relatively unknown.

Just the way we like it.

When We Visited: September 8, 2015

Ages of Kids: 9, 8, 5

Total Mileage: 3.2 miles in, 3.5 miles out, 1 night.

Packing for this one was quick. Sam worked and the kids did school in the morning, and then around 1pm we started pulling out all the gear. Rachel and I threw together some quick Freezer Bag meals, and by 3pm we were headed out. It was only a 30 minute drive to the trail head and we were all feeling pretty good getting started along the trail.

Backpacking trip #2!
Backpacking George H Crosby Manitou State Park with Kids

Within the first 1/2 mile or so we found one of the markers for Minnesota’s Wildflower geocaching program. So, we took a short detour to find it.

Backpacking George H Crosby Manitou State Park with Kids

This hike was a little longer than our first on the Apostle Islands, and there was definitely more elevation involved. We started around 3:30pm and hiked in about 2.3 miles. We started passing campsites and were counting up to #6 when suddenly, at the top of a small hill we were there! Or so we thought. The campsite marker was along the trail, and we could see where previous campers had a fire ring and stacked logs around it to sit on. Upon further inspection of the area, there wasn’t really a flat spot sans roots for the tent, and no where was the pit toilet or bear pole that had been promised in the site description.

Backpacking George H Crosby Manitou State Park with Kids

I seriously almost cried. There had been some frustration all around getting going on this trip and to have a completely non-epic site was not helping. We collectively took a deep breath, dropped our packs, and set out to explore a bit more and see what we could find. Sam continued on the trail to possibly see if sites 7 or 8 were available, and the kids and I climbed the hill to the “overlook” to see if there was anything up there.

We found a large, flat rock with the remains of more than one campfire (and one amazing view!) and then just back into the trees a bit we found it! An official, metal fire ring. We kept exploring and found a flat spot for the tent, and even the toilet! Hooray! We wouldn’t be sleeping on roots or digging holes.

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We never found the bear pole, but we easily found a decent tree to bear bag our food. The kids thought it was fun and we figured it was a good teaching moment anyway. Not every site we camp at will have a bear box.

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Our evening was pretty chill. After setting up the tent, we brought our food down to the “dining room” and the kids played cards while Sam and I cooked up some dinner. We tried two new meals on this trip and both were great! We had mashed potato, stuffing, chicken with cranberries (tasted like Thanksgiving dinner!), and then for breakfast we did chocolate banana oatmeal.

Backpacking George H Crosby Manitou State Park with Kids

The weather was a bit chilly in the morning, but dressing in layers makes the temperature manageable. From the dining room we could see Lake Superior off in the distance which reminded us we were still along the “coast”.
Backpacking George H Crosby Manitou State Park with Kids

After breakfast and packing up, we opted to hike the “long” way out and add in the loop around Bensen Lake. It was flat with boardwalk the entire way around the lake and a super fun way to end the hike! We stopped at the picnic area and ate lunch before hiking the short distance out to the car and back to the Airstream at Tettegouche State Park.

Backpacking George H Crosby Manitou State Park with Kids

This park is definitely doable with young kids! We checked out some of the sites around Bensen Lake (Sites 20, 21, & 22) and they were beautiful and not that far from the parking lot. As parents, you could even take a couple of trips lugging gear if you didn’t have packs.

Highlighted in green below is the route we took. We started on Middle Trail, turned off onto West Manitou River Trail, and camped one night at site #6. On the way out we followed Misquah to Yellow Birch, cut through next to campsite 20, around the lake, and then back to the parking lot.

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While a bit logistically strange, we really enjoyed the peace and solitude at this park! The kids now had another solid over nighter under their belts, while Sam and I were gaining confidence spontaneously camping in the back country with kids. Definitely a win-win situation!

Categories
Minnesota National Parks State Parks WanderLog

Minnesota’s North Shore – Duluth to Grand Portgage

Minnesota North Shore Split Rock Lighthouse State Park

Travel Dates: August 27 – Sept 11, 2015

The “North Shore” is the section of Minnesota from Duluth to Grand Portage along the Lake Superior coastline. I had heard amazing things about this section of Minnesota and had been ready to visit it since we first set foot in the state. After some plan changes and a few detours we finally made it. The landscape, state parks, and adventures did not disappoint!

Ages of Kids: 9, 8, 5
Places We Visited: Duluth, Gooseberry Falls State Park, Split Rock Lighthouse State Park, Tettegouche State Park, George H. Crosby Manitou State Park, Grand Marais, Grand Portage, Grand Portage State Park

There were a couple of logistical complications with staying along the north shore. The first was that I knew it there was plenty to see with 8 state parks, plenty of small towns, and more waterfalls than we could probably count. I also knew we couldn’t see all the things, but wanted to spend more than a week exploring this section of Minnesota.

Complicating things even further, there was a church in Duluth and then another one across the border in Thunder Bay, Ontario. That means we had only a week if we wanted to make it to church both weeks. So, we improvised.

Instead of driving up the north shore a good distance, we stopped at Gooseberry Falls (the first state park north of Duluth) and grabbed a walk-up site for 6 days which would get us through Labor Day and was only an hour drive back to church in Duluth. There was plenty to see and do at Gooseberry and we could take a short day trip up to Split Rock Lighthouse State Park somewhere in the middle.

Our plan worked amazingly well! While there was still plenty we didn’t see, I felt like we were able to immerse ourselves in a beautiful section of Minnesota and really enjoy it!

Read on for a play by play of what we did along the way:

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First stop along our route was the city of Duluth. We were having problems with our trailer brakes, so we dropped the trailer off at a local shop and spent the morning at the children’s museum. Sam had headphones and his laptop to get some work done and the kids had a great time playing.

After grabbing some lunch downtown at the Northern Waters Smokehaus, we wandered around Canal Park for a bit, and then spent a good hour at the public library waiting for the call that the trailer was finished.

Once we picked the trailer back up, we headed for our camping spot at Indian Point City Campground. After trying to level the trailer in one spot and failing, we went back to the office to see if they had anything else available and ended up in the perfect corner spot. Lots of green space to stretch out in.

We also visited the Lake Superior Maritime Visitor Center which was free, totally interesting for Sam and I, and completely bored the kids. We enjoyed watching the Aerial Lift Bridge rise for incoming sailboats, ate ice cream, road the trolley, climbed the tower at Enger Park, and I even got in a short mountain bike ride.

It was a packed, but thoroughly enjoyable 4 days!

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Tuesday morning we started our trek north along the shore. We found an epic pull off for lunch, and spent some time admiring the rugged coastline and the amazingly clear, blue water of the lake.

11429695_1061083393909506_822896934_nThe ranger at Gooseberry Falls State Park was surprised we wanted to stay for 6 days. I think most people pull in for a day, two at most and then move on. We loved hanging out at this park. There’s plenty to see & do and we had great site with a tree the kids turned into a fort.

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Sam and I separately rode the Gitchi-Gami bike trail from Gooseberry Falls to Split Rock Lighthouse. The trail is paved the whole way but has some pretty good climbs and I’m glad we didn’t take the kids. See my review of this ride on The Outbound Collective here.

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My favorite thing, by far, about this section of our trip was the pie at Betty’s Pies. Oh. My. Goodness. It was so good we want back for round two and were even tempted to squeeze in a third visit but decided we didn’t want to appear greedy. If you go, get the Pig Trough. It has three slices of pie (different kids), 4 scoops of ice cream, whipped cream, and chocolate syrup. We downed it in less than 5 minutes. Twice. You can also order online and have a pie shipped to you which is awesome.

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Evening trip Split Rock Lighthouse with beautiful light and rock scrambling. Perfection.

Related blog post:
Not Going Back to School And Happy About It

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Our next stop was Tettegouche State Park. While we were backing into our site and unhitching we blew one of our truck airbags. Oops.

The rangers were fantastic and let us Prime ship a replacement from Amazon to the visitor center. We just couldn’t pull the Airstream out of our site until we had fixed it.

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While we were waiting for the replacement to come in, we decided to do an overnight trip into George H. Manitou-Crosby State Park. The ranger had recommended it as one of his favorite places to hike, so we thought we ought to check it out. It was absolutely beautiful! I think we are probably the only people that leave their trailer in a state park so they can backpack in another nearby one.

Related blog posts:
 Trip Report on the Outbound Collective
The Camping Spot We Almost Didn’t Find

11910396_1626700350902824_1554754539_nWe were able to vacate our site on Thursday at 4:10pm (only 10 minutes past check out!) and headed north once again. This is where things got a little rough. We were planning to stay at  Cascade River State Park, but there wasn’t a site left we could fit in so we kept moving to the city of Grand Marais instead. We stayed at the Grand Marais City RV Park with our goal being to eat fish & chips which we did at Dockside Fish Market.

Sam and I also snuck out for dessert at Sydney’s Frozen Custard (amazing roof seating!), and we picked up some World’s Best Donuts (they really ARE that good) for breakfast the following morning. For a small, tourist town Grand Marais has some great food!
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Next stop was Grand Portage. We stayed at the RV park near the Casino as it was really our only option. It wasn’t bad as we had a great view, but the internet was pretty spotty since we were so close to the Canadian Border.

“We parked the Airstream at a wonky angle to maximize our view in a move I will lovingly call The Zimmerman™ due to the conformity busting example of @advodna_dave and @advodna_ann. Today was actually full of noncooperative internet and other difficulties, but hey, Rainbows!” -@telegramsam

 

“This one is for @herboldadventure. Stuff pulled out from under the beds to make forts, and chaos in the back. I’m trying to make dinner and @telegramsam is trying to motivate himself to work despite less than reliable campground WiFi. #reallife#wanderingconfessions -@jesscurren

Our favorite stop (and main reason for being here) was to visit Grand Portage National Monument and continue our education of the beaver fur trade and the voyageurs. We participated in a guided tour of the fort, hiked to the top of Mount Rose, and earned our Jr. Ranger Badges.

“Our obsession with the Voyageurs continues with a visit to Grand Portage. Here is where the Voyageurs from the North West Company in Montreal and the hivernauts from the north country met, partied, traded goods and then went their separate ways. Last night we climbed the short, but steep hike to the top of Mt. Rose and were rewarded with a beautiful view and a rainbow.” -@jesscurren

“Grand Portage National Monument celebrates the history of the fur trade in the early 19th century. Voyageurs from Montreal and hivernauts from the north met here in the summer to trade goods for furs. There was also the local population of Ojibwe people which created quite the blend of culture.” – @currentlywandering

“After the American Revolution, the British based Northwest Company had to move their outpost from Grand Portage across the border to Thunder Bay.
I’m not sure why we have found this piece of history so fascinating, but it has been fun to track the Voyageurs and learn from multiple sites about their rich history.
During the second weekend in August, the National Monument holds the Rendezvous with hundreds of actors in period dress, games for the kids, and food. We definitely want to try and return at some point and participate!” – @currentlywandering

“Inside the warehouse at Grand Portage there are examples of the different types of canoes the Voyageurs used, as well as their cargo. The Montreal Canoe could carry 4 tons of cargo, or everything pictured here in addition to the 16 or so men that rowed it and their personal gear. The canoes were made of Birch Bark and Cedar wood and light enough for just a few men to portage around the rougher sections of river.” – @currentlywandering

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@jesscurren wasn’t feeling very well, but we snuck out for a short wander after dinner anyway. The sky was in excellent form as we pondered the life of a Voyager for the North West Company.” – @telegramsam

After changing some cash from American to Canadian, it was time to cross the border into Canada! We had one last stop at Grand Portage State Park to see Minnesota’s highest waterfall and the reason the voyageurs had to portage their canoes around this section of the Pigeon River. The kids also turned in their Pinelands Minnesota State Parks Jr. Ranger Naturalist books and received their patches.

“These falls and other obstacles in the first handful of miles of the Pigeon River are why Grand Portage exists. The high canyon walls made shorter portages, where voyagers would carry their canoes and cargo around an impassable section of river, quite difficult. For scale, look for the Canadians sitting to the top right of the falls. The Pigeon River is also the US/Canada international border.
The easiest portage around this otherwise very important river is a 12 mile overland trail known as Grand Portage. Why is it so Grand? From Lake Superior you can travel by water to the Pacific Ocean, Atlantic Ocean, Arctic Ocean, and the Gulf of Mexico with portages no longer than 11.5 miles. Grand Portage is the longest portage along dominant water routes in all of North America.” -@telegramsam

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Next up, Canada!