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Michigan Musings of Sam

Sam vs The Off-Season Canoe Rental

canoeOur visit to the Bruin Lake Campground of the Pinckney Recreation Area was intended to be a little quiet and boring. Our loop of Lake Superior and subsequent re-entry into the USA and visits with friends left us with a list of stuff that just needed to get done. We even passed on a wonderful invitation to a nearby art show just to have a little peace and quiet. The park was perfect. Peace and quiet abounded, and Jess and I were knocking down to-do list items right and left. The limited recreation options nearby made it easy to focus on working hard.

The trouble was the lake. It is beautiful, and the fall weather was amazing. We were surprised to find that canoe rentals were still possible despite being well past labor day. Hmm… I thought, a canoe rental sounds great.

It was such a good idea, yet somehow, I completely managed to botch it.

A sign near the entrance to the park provided the phone number of the park concessionaire that offered the canoes for rent. The canoes themselves where already on a rack trailer near the boat ramp, but paddles and lifejackets were provided after you paid for a rental. I called the number listed and talked to the rental guy, who also happened to be running an ice-cream shop in the nearby city of Hell, Michigan. With a rental, he would swing by and drop off our gear in the morning, at the price of $42 per day. He even offered to let us keep the gear till we left (3 days total) for just $50.  I told him that we’d think about it, and hung up.

Round One of Sam vs the Canoe Rental was a game of mental issues. The price had been higher than I was expecting, and I was slightly reluctant to fork out that much money. I imagined that I’d probably get a paddle in per kid, and perhaps two with Jess. In my mind, it was hard to weigh that money against the value. I was also worried about being distracted when I was really trying to get stuff done. The shop closed at 5pm, and I hadn’t made up my mind by then. I was still kind of thinking about it, but I wasn’t sure.

Round Two of Sam vs the Canoe Rental was unfortunate timing. I got up early the next day and plowed through an incredible pile of work and various chores. I pushed through a pile of work till the afternoon, when I spent an hour or so playing frisbee with the kids during what became a spectacular fall afternoon. I began to think about the canoe again, but decided not to push it. I really try to avoid trying to ‘improve’ something that is already great, and we really had fun throwing the disc around.

The next day was another good workday, but our focus was wearing a bit. About 2 in the afternoon I took a break and resolved to do this canoe thing. I called the rental guy back, only to discover that he was on the way to a doctor’s appointment and would be out the entire afternoon. I couldn’t even drive to pick up the gear, as the shop was closed in his absence. I really needed a break that afternoon, but it wasn’t going to be paddling. Jess and I snuck away for some ice cream later that night, but I was still missing a paddle.

At this point, it was time to give up. The original (and in retrospect, generous) offer to keep the gear for 3 days for only $50 had reached it’s effective limit. We already had plans to visit the Jiffy factor in nearby Chelsea and wouldn’t have much time past that.

It is also worth considering why we don’t travel with a canoe or kayak, since I do enjoy it so much. Given our small space situation, we have to be pretty picky about what we travel with. We travel with bikes for the whole family, and there just isn’t enough room for both bikes and boats. We do use the bikes quite frequently, and I do love to ride. We normally have no problem renting canoes or kayaks while we explore, but we’ve discovered that the off-season limits our opportunities.

So here we have been, right next to some particularly nice paddling lakes, and no canoe. The real lesson here is that I should have immediately agreed to the original offer on the spot. We all would have enjoyed some time out on the lake, and it would have been a wonderful activity to break up the otherwise work filled week.

As it happens, Jess and I walked over to the canoe rack to take the above picture to tell this story. To our surprise, there was a paddle sitting nearby, as if somebody had rented the canoe for the day and left the gear for pickup. We might have borrowed the canoe for a few minutes. It was a fun few minutes, but our short paddle only confirmed that I really should have jumped on it when I had the chance.

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Biking Daily Life Michigan Mommy Diaries

At Least There Was a Caterpillar

SAM_4477-EditLife is always harder when Sam is gone. This was true back in our sticks and bricks, and even more so on the road. He always gives me my second wind around 5pm when I’m about to crash, and I love sharing responsibilities, fun, and chores (those pesky things) with my best friend.

Occasionally he still has business trips that take him away from home, and I try and keep everyone still breathing and functional on my own. I am two days into his current 3 day business trip and remarkably today went better than yesterday.

We are camped in a State Park that has a network of mountain biking trails and after getting out on my own yesterday (don’t worry, the kids were fine) I was determined to take them out today on what the locals assured me was an easier trail.

First off, you have to be a special kind of crazy to take three kids mountain biking by yourself especially when one of them is 5 years old and frequently interchanges her “tired” voice with her “whiny” voice. Both sound the same to me.

Fortunately the trail started out pretty level & smooth, but we gradually had sand, tree roots, and even a few climbs that included sand and tree roots.There was definitely more walking the bikes than riding them on the last half of the trail. When Endomondo called out our lap pace and indicated the last mile took us 33 minutes I just had to laugh.

The bright side of walking your bike up the trail is that you see things that otherwise would have been a blur. As I waited at the top of the hill I watched Andrew bend down and then exclaim, “Mom! This is a really cool caterpillar!”

And it was. I dropped my bike and trekked back down to see it. The little guy was fuzzy, white, and had black spots running down his back and was arguably one of the most interesting caterpillars we’ve seen. After we saved his life by moving him off the trail with a small twig, the kids continued pushing their bikes up the hill.

This time though there was a little more spring in their steps. Even if the trail was frustrating, slow, and a discouraging, at least there was a caterpillar.

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Michigan

Shipping Traffic on the Great Lakes

Shipping Lanes in Sault Ste. Marie

We’ve recently completed a circle tour of Lake Superior, and we had a great experience. One surprise in our journey was the shipping traffic on the Great Lakes. I knew shipping on the great lakes was a thing, but I had not considered how we might learn about it or experience it during our journey.

Fairly early we began to see ore docks used to load mining ore onto lake boats. We first saw half-dismantled docks in Marquette, but also saw functioning ore docs as well. We never ended up seeing a ship being loaded, but the docs were very clearly still in operation.

We arrived in Duluth to discover the obvious hub of activity around it’s active ports on both sides of the Michigan / Wisconsin state line. The large ships enter port by traveling under the Aerial Lift Bridge, which we visited in our stroll downtown. Right next to the bridge is a Maritime Museum with all sorts of neat displays about shipping on the Great Lakes. This museum is free, and was great for us adults but slightly boring for the kids. In the museum was information about when ships would be entering or leaving the port, directly under that awesome bridge.

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Our timing was not excellent, and it just wasn’t convenient to be in place to watch a huge ship pass. We did enjoy the bridge with a walk under it and across it, and we did get to see the bridge raise to let a few small sailboats under it.

The huge discovery in Duluth was that big boat watching was a thing. We soon headed up the North Shore in search of adventure, but I remembered the shipping.

As we traveled the Trans Canadian highway on the final few legs of our Superior Circle Tour, I was contemplating my goals for Sault St. Marie. The shipping traffic on Lake Superior must pass the 15 foot drop at the rapids of the Saint Mary’s river. My research revealed a viewing platform perfect for lock observation. Before I talk about the locks, let’s talk pronunciation.

Sault is an old French word for Rapid. I’ve been pronouncing it like ‘salt’ ever since I discovered it on the Ticket To Ride board game, but it is actually pronounced ‘Soo’. The spellings are actually used interchangeably up here, but it is pronounced the same way in either case. Sault Saint Marie translates to “Rapids on Saint Mary’s River”, which is a pretty darn accurate description of the place.

When we got here, the viewing platform was very obvious. Parking along passage avenue is metered, so bring quarters. The platform is really an ideal place to watch the locks in operation. I visited twice, and enjoyed a few ships each time.

The real trick to enjoying lock operation is to know when ships will be at the locks. The easiest way to discovery this is to call a magical phone number  [ (906)635-3224 ] where the day’s passages are available on a recorded message. The times are given in ‘military’ time, so 0423 is 4:23 am and 17:12 is 5:12 pm. Jot down the times that seem to match your schedule best and plan for those. Clusters of ships can make for a fun viewing experience as well.

Shipping Traffic on the Great Lakes

The other way to learn about the ships is by viewing a real-time map of all the great lakes shipping boats. This will tell you about each boat, including it’s size. Visit the awesome BoatNerd site and keep an eye on the boats. With some fiddling, you can get it to estimate travel times to the locks, and you can look up information about the boats passing by.

While watching boats travel the locks was extremely interesting, these mammoth ships are also impressive all by themselves. Our campsite had a great view of the boats going up and down the river, and we also enjoyed just sitting out and watching them go by!

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Knowing a little about the procedure can help make the experience more exciting for both adults and kids. I really loved it! Ships and Physics and Stuff!

Categories
Michigan

Michigan Upper Peninsula Pasty (PAST-EE) Taste Test

Traveling through the Upper Peninsula of Michigan without trying a pasty would have been a travesty. A pasty is a baked pastry, traditionally filled with meat, vegetables, rutabagas, seasoning and then baked to perfection. It is pronounced Past-Tee, but more run together, like Past-ee. Mispronounce it and you will be gently corrected. It has a crimped, curved edge which allows a person to eat it with one hand. And they are only commonly found in Michigan’s Upper Peninsula.

The pasty came over from Cornwall, England with the influx of immigrants who worked in the mines. The pasty was easy to stuff in a pocket or lunch pail, reheat over a lantern down in the mines, and then eat one handed.

Different shops have a variety of fillings now – from the traditional beef and potatoes, to chicken & broccoli, and even fruit (although we were told a dessert filled pasty is, in fact, not really a pasty).

We had a few recommendations for places to try that we decided to do a little taste test and see which of the three restaurants was our favorite.

Muldoon’s Pasties & Gifts – Munising, MI

First stop, and we didn’t really know what to expect, but the line was long which typically indicates good food. We asked for ours to stay, and they gave us paper plates and silverware to go with our wrapped pasties. We ordered a chicken, a beef, an apple, and a raspberry pasty. Cara didn’t eat a whole lot (or really anything at all), so we basically split each pasty between two people. It was a good amount of food and they were delicious! Half of us liked the chicken better, and the other half preferred the beef. Both were great with gravy.

Their desert pasties were my personal favorite. Officially a pasty or not, they tasted like pie and were even better with ice cream! This was the only one of the three that served dessert so I’m glad we went back a second time for round two.

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The raspberry pasty of awesomeness:

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Jean-Kay’s Pasties & Subs – Marquette, MI

We stopped by Jean-Kay’s for lunch on our way out of town. We were greeted warmly by the owner who took our order. Real plates and silverware with pasties straight from the warming oven. Jean-Kay’s crust was the lightest and probably best we tasted. We ordered a traditional beef and then a vegetable pasty which had cream cheese in it. I must be partial to cheese because that was my favorite part – although it seemed to be clumped near the top and would have been better melted throughout the whole pasty.

Jean-Kay’s pasties seemed a bit smaller so we ordered a small potato salad (which was amazing) and cookies to go!

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Roy’s Pasties & Bakery – Houghton, WI

This was definitely the most “commercialized” establishment of the three. Roy’s is located along the waterfront in Houghton and is a beautiful building with large windows and views of the lift bridge and river (canal?). They also have a more varied menu. Unfortunately, they were out of their Turkey Cranberry pasties (which sounded amazing), but we ordered a traditional, a chicken & broccoli, and two breakfast pasties (eggs, potatoes, sausage, cheese, & onion). Since Cara was not looking forward to yet another pasty dinner, we thought the breakfast one would go over better with her. It did, but she still didn’t eat much. Silly girl.

This was the first pasty that didn’t come with gravy, but we found some hot sauce packets that looked like a good deal and tried that. Pretty good! The traditional pasty was decent, but the chicken and broccoli was amazing!! I think it maybe have been the addition of cheese, but we almost had to play rock, paper, scissors to see who got to finish that one off.

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Apparently breakfast pasties call for a little ketchup!
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And the Winner Is…

Choosing a winner is difficult when they are so unique despite their common heritage. The ultimate winners here are the participants! We loved seeking out a locally unique food and testing a variety. Now, we only tried three pasty places, and we were assured that at least two other places were better than the ones we tried. Alas, both our stomachs and our pocketbooks couldn’t hold out to try them all!

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Michigan WanderLog

Michigan’s Upper Peninsula (aka The UP)

Our Travel Log for Michigan

Travel Dates: August 7-17, 2015

We left the Dells, and arrived in Michigan’s Upper Peninsula unceremoniously on Friday afternoon, August 14, 2015 after driving up from Walmart down near Green Bay, Wisconsin. Totally ignored the time zone change to Eastern Time as we searched along the west shore of Lake Michigan for a place to stay for the weekend.

We finally ended up in Pioneer Trail County Park in Gladstone and snagged a rustic camping spot for the weekend. Played some disc golf, got laundry done, went grocery shopping, and made it to church.

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Bright and early Monday morning we headed farther to Pictured Rocks National Lakeshore. We stopped at Muldoon’s Pasties & Gifts in Munising on the way up for lunch and thoroughly enjoyed our first pasty. Delicious, especially the dessert pies.

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Found a beautiful boondocking spot south of Pictured Rocks National Lakeshore and spent a few, slightly frustrating days exploring the park with all the tourists on vacation.

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Headed back west, we spent two nights at Marquette Tourist County Park. The town is super cute & Sam and I managed to squeeze in a bike date to get ice cream at Frosty Treats. We also rode out to Presque Isle with the kids and hiked a bit around the peninsula/island. Super pretty. On our way out we ate at Jean -Kay’s pasties & subs and enjoyed our first vegetarian pasty.

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Drove to the Keweenaw Peninsula where we had reservations at Linden County Park so we could send packages ahead of us. The park isn’t amazing, but the kids enjoyed the swim beach.

11261374_860672233968730_479493537_nWe day tripped up to Calumet and the Keweenaw National Historic Site Visitor Center to earn our 74th Jr. Ranger Badge and enjoyed learning about the history of the area.

Our third and final pasty taste test was at Roy’s where their chicken & broccoli pastie totally took the gold medal. We also ventured into Hungarian Falls and were disappointed the reports of swimming in the waterfalls proved to be false, but had fun throwing rocks into the pool and hunting for frogs.

Moving farther west, our next stop was the Porcupine Mountains. We woke up super early to try and get to the Union Bay Campground for a first come, first served spot. Unfortunately, there was no Verizon signal anywhere and we weren’t very impressed with the campground anyway.

Instead, we decided to have Sam take the day off and we went hiking! After a quick lunch in the Visitor Center parking lot, we drove up to Summit Peak and hiked the loop ending with the lookout tower.  It was beautiful and only about 5.5 miles of pretty gentle grade. We loved it.

11326513_1517456441878056_1670842139_nIt was still only about 3:30pm so we drove over to the Lake of the Clouds overlook to check that out. Super pretty views, but all I could think about was the hike along the ridge that would be EPIC. So many back country trails and campsites at this park.

Lastly, we grabbed this pull out spot next to the side of the road and the kids played on the beach while Sam and I cooked up a grilled sausage and pasta dinner. Afterwards we had our weekly Family Night on the beach, followed by treats and then about an hour to Walmart in Ironwood, MI for the night.

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That wraps up (for now) our tour of Michigan’s Upper Peninsula. It really is a different place than “the mitten” with absolutely gorgeous views of Lake Superior, and more back country hiking than I expected (not that my expectations were high to begin with!).

Next up we went back to Wisconsin to backpack on the Apostle Islands!