Categories
On the Water Utah

Paddle Labyrinth Canyon on the Green River – Utah

Located just north of Canyonlands National Park, Labyrinth Canyon is a flatwater stretch of the Green River. Completely remote and isolated, this float trip boasts towering, sandstone mesas, side canyons, lush vegetation, peace, and solitude.

When We Went: April 27 – 29, 2017

Ages of Kids: 11, 9, 6

Stretch of River: Ruby Ranch to Mineral Bottom

Having just completed our overnight trip on the Rio Grande down in Texas we were falling hard for flat water canoe trips. After meeting up with Steve & Tess from The More We Explore in Moab, we decided to jump on their planned 3 day trip through Labyrinth Canyon. Paddling a three day trip down a swift moving, large river was a bit intimidating but knowing we would be with others helped boost our confidence levels.

Don’t forget your map! Get it here on Amazon: Belknap’s Waterproof Canyonlands River Guide

Boat Choice

While the rest of the group decided to single kayak, we choose canoes for a few specific reasons. From previous experience, we knew we could fit all our gear. Utah had an abnormal amount of snow over the winter and the river was running fairly swift. While our kids do great kayaking small streams and lakes, paddling a big, fast, river by themselves was outside their skill set. With canoes, we could always have one adult in each boat and the kids could switch out.

Rafts were out due to the flat water nature of the river. When there are no rapids, a sizable raft is hard to paddle and steer while being completely overkill.

Steve introduced us to Sea Eagle Boats, and after some conversation they agreed to send us two of their T16 Inflatable Travel Canoes to test out in exchange for some drone footage of the trip. We were stoked. With our traveling lifestyle, there’s no way we could ever buy canoes, but these seemed like a viable option and we couldn’t wait to try them out.

Packing the Gear

We mostly just brought our backpacking gear. Sam’s dad has been unloading gear for years, and we managed to recently snag his two large, bright yellow, dry bags. We put tents, sleeping bags and pads in one, and then packed our clothes in color coordinated e-cubes and threw those in the other one with our two REI camp chairs.

Specific to this trip we also needed to bring our own water as the river can’t be filtered. We brought our two two 5 gallon Rhino water jugs for fresh water. The recommendation is 2 gallons per person per day but that also depends on what you plan to cook. We ended up with quite a bit extra, but I like to err on the side of too much water.

We also needed a toilet system as we had to pack out all human waste. For the Rio Grande trip we rented a system, but this time we bought a folding toilet seat on Amazon (threw away the plastic bag and just kept the seat and legs). We combined it with a 2 gallon, Leaktite bucket, a seal tight lid, and a lid tool to pry it off. Worked great and we just found an RV dump after the trip to depose of the contents.

Sam has been bugging me for awhile to try out a pStyle for our back country trips. I was never really on board, but for some reason this time I pulled the plug. Serious life changer! The pStyle basically lets us girls pee standing up which is especially useful on cold mornings. It also helped to not fill the bucket up with pee and we used less toilet paper. Both Rachel & Cara used it like champs, so its going to be a staple in our backpacking gear from now on! Plus, there are a ton of cute covers available so we can be styling while we are at it.

Meals & Food

We packed our typical Freezer-Bag cooking meals. This trip we also tried out a new flavor from Mountain House. They sent us their new Chicken Fajita Dinner Bowl and a Spicy Southwest Breakfast Hash to try out. Love that they are adding some Mexican inspired dishes to their product offerings! Inspired, I also dug up our own recipe for chicken fajitas and we had fun comparing the two. The Mountain House version definitely had more kick, but we liked them both! We also pulled a Mountain House Breakfast Skillet out of our emergency supply (time to rotate it anyway!).

With our REI member dividend a few weeks earlier, I bought a Classic IceMule Cooler & a couple of Coleman Chillers Hard Ice Substitutes to go with it. I figured that we could have some refrigerated meals our first day while the ice was still cold.

Day 1: Breakfast – bagels, cream cheese, Naked Juice smoothies; Lunch – Hard boiled egg sandwiches on pitas, carrot sticks; Dinner – Thai Noodles; Dessert – Cookies Rachel made pre-trip

Day 2: Breakfast – Strawberry chocolate oatmeal, and hot chocolate; Lunch – BBQ Chicken Wraps; Dinner – Chicken Fajita Bowl on tortillas with leftover cheddar cheese from lunch; Dessert- Mountain House Apple Crisp (not my favorite).

Day 3: Breakfast- Mountain House Breakfast Hash & Skillet (was going to be in tortillas but we ate them all the night before); Lunch – Tuna & crackers, cucumber; Dinner – Hamburgers at Groggs Pinnacle Brewery in Price, Utah. Seriously the best burgers ever!

Snacks: I thought we had totally over packed on snacks, but then the shuttle took so long and we didn’t get to dinner until around 8:00pm Saturday night. Between the take out and dinner we seriously snarfed the rest of what I packed. We took Fig Bars, Perky Jerky, Bare Snacks, fruit snacks, Go-Go Squeeze, peanut & skittle mix, and Twizzlers. Yum.

Shuttling the Vehicles

A major portion of river logistics is running a vehicle shuttle. Its not like a backpacking trip where we can plan a loop, ending up back at our car. There’s no way we are paddling back UP the river, so we needed to get our vehicles down to the take out.

The night before put in, we tent camped near Moab on some BLM land. I’ll admit the drive down from Salt Lake was not my finest hour. Packing for a trip is always stressful, plus we added a dentist appointment & stormy weather to our afternoon and I was literally thinking, “What on Earth are we doing?!” as we drove south.

Luckily the rain blew over, we woke up dry and excited and met our group at the dinosaur museum near the turnoff to Canyonlands National Park. From there we sent three cars and drivers down to the take out at Mineral Bottom (about 45 minutes), while the rest of us piled into Fred the Van along with the boats and made for the put it at Ruby Ranch (1.5 hours or so northwest).

This is where its convenient to have multiple cars and a large group. We left one car and our truck at the take out which was enough to fit all 11 of us and our gear at the end of the trip, and the third car drove all the drivers up to Ruby Ranch where we had been inflating boats and getting the gear ready.

There are companies you can pay to shuttle your car for you, and depending on your group size and budget can be a good option. The post-river shuttle took a good 5 hours once we had loaded the boats, driven back up to Ruby Ranch, grabbed the other cards, and reshuffled gear. It was a lot of driving. For our family of 5, though, having a company shuttle us would have been cost prohibitive. Grateful we had friends to go with!

Put In at Ruby Ranch

The boat launch at Ruby Ranch is on private land. They are gracious enough to allow boaters access but do charge a $10/boat AND $5/person fee. Exact amount in cash is required.

The put it was easy enough to find and we were the only group headed out that morning. Our three kids were a huge help inflating canoes and kayaks and we had everything just about done by the time our shuttlers showed up. We ate a quick lunch and then were off!

Floating the River

We needed to cover 45 miles in just three days. The plan was to evenly split and cover about 15 miles per day. The river was moving at a pretty good pace, and I think we mostly expected to leisurely float down the river. I also expected our canoes to be the slowest. Not so much. I think our kayaking friends were slightly annoyed at how much paddling they had to do to keep up!

In order to keep our boats pointed downriver we needed to steer, and in order to steer there had to be a bit of paddling. When they were behaving, our canoes literally sliced through the water. At one point, Sam and Rachel pulled out their ‘A’ game and took off outpacing the kayaks by quite a bit just trying to see how fast they could go.

We were the first to push off (I think everyone thought we’d be slow) so we tried to keep it casual while waiting for everyone to catch up. Just a few miles downstream we started encountering sandstone walls. While the Green is at least 4 times as wide as the Rio Grande, both Rachel & I started getting fidgety as memories of crashing into rocks and getting dumped in the river came flooding back.

We also learned our canoe was imbalanced. I had put the heavy water jugs behind my seat in the back and we kept getting turned around. Once we were exactly backwards, our canoe did just fine floating in a straight line. Rachel was frustrated at my lack of control and may have burst into tears and quit paddling right then and there. I think one of my better parenting moments was to let her cry it out. I knew why she was frustrated and scared, and we weren’t in any danger.

Steve came to our rescue and helped us transfer our heavy, 5 gallon water jug to the front of the canoe instead. Not an easy task while both still floating downstream and trying to not to tip in. It totally worked though! With the heavy weight in the front, we were more prone to stay pointed the right direction. What a relief!

Most of the paddling was easy and enjoyable. The scenery is gorgeous and once my brain finally settled, I was utterly at peace. We had quite a bit of sun our first day, but the following two days were colder and we kept our jackets on. I joked over on Instagram that life on the river can be tedious for young kids. Good thing we brought some stuffy friends along to keep us company!

Fighting the Wind

The biggest challenge was the wind. At one point, Andrew, Cara, and I had drifted to the far side of the river and we needed to make it all the way across for a take out. With a strong headwind pushing us backwards, we gave it everything we had. I was so proud of my kids at that moment for digging in and as we neared the far side we could hear everyone cheering us on! Definitely one of my favorite moments, and also one of the most exhausting.

On Day 2 we headed into Bow Knot Bend. This section of the river literally looks like half of a bow tie while the river bends back on itself. Between the changing river current, and wind coming up over the saddle there was some crazy strong, unpredictable wind. We cut our miles short on Day 2 so we could hit the majority of the Bend with fresh arms and spirits the morning of Day 3.

We set off early and right out of the gate were fighting the wind. I was still having trouble keeping the boat straight, and both Rachel and I were extremely frustrated with our situation. Not a good way to start the day. We rounded the mushroom side of Bow Knot and received a welcome relief from the wind. The sun came out, and we mostly just rested as our boats continued downstream.

As we rounded the corner, I braced myself for the wind I knew was coming. It came HARD. We tried to keep about 20-30 feet away from the bank as one of our biggest frustrations was being blown into the Tamarisk plants along the edges. Not our favorite place to be. The current seemed to moving slightly slower out there as well, although with the strong wind pushing back at us we literally were seeing white capped waves. It was insane.

Rachel and I finally got into a rhythm where I would provide driving force from the back, and she would do a reaching stroke from the front to keep us pointed downstream. We realized later that our skeg (small fin in the back of the canoe) was severely limiting my ability to steer from the back. I could be back paddling extremely hard and go absolutely nowhere. Rachel’s strokes in the front helped pull us to one side or the other and I battled against the wind from the back.

“After battling up a long section of river, Andrew and I ducked under this tree for a brief break before heading on. A few minutes later we were joined by the others as we rafted up briefly before continuing downstream.

We headed back out and battled onward into the wind and spray. As it intensified, Andrew joyfully yelled “THIS IS THE LIFE!” Yes it is, Andrew, yes it is.” – @telegramsam

It was amazing to me that we could literally see the line where the wind stopped. Something about the shape of the canyon, but once we crossed that line just below Bow Knot saddle the wind reversed into a tailwind, the sun broke through the clouds and the kids and I happily sang, “There is Sunshine in My Soul Today” at the top of our lungs.

Exploring Side Canyons

One of my favorite parts about this trip was all the side canyon exploring. It was fun to get out and hike. Standing up and stretching our legs always felt great!

Day 1 we stopped at Three Canyon & Trin-Alcove Bend near river mile 90 and parked the boats for some land exploring. There was a social trail leading up into the canyons, but mostly we just picked our way over boulders until we reached the end.

Morning of Day 2 we hit Ten Mile Canyon. We could’ve paddled a ways, but mostly just went until we felt like turning around. These side canyons were a great time to switch things up, and my kids were given the opportunity to kayak for a bit. They loved it!

A little later in the day we stopped at Hey Joe Canyon to stretch our legs. There is a Uranium mine up the canyon a bit, but we realized it was getting late, we still had miles to paddle, and we wanted to save time for the saddle hike.

Evening of Day 2 we camped near, and then hiked to the top of BowKnot Saddle. Don’t miss this! There’s a legit trail headed to the top and the view up there was unbelievable! Just watch out for the wind.

Day 3 we intended to paddle up Horseshoe Canyon, but never quite find out. We found a bank for lunch instead and just enjoyed the break. Before taking out our last stop was Hell Roaring Canyon where the D. Julie Inscription is located. Super cool history – just don’t carve your name into the rock!

Finding a Campsite

Part of the stress of river running is finding a campsite. We joked that often it is too early, too early, and then suddenly its two hours past dinner and everyone is starving.  @themorewexplore did a ton of research on possible campsites, but with changing river levels and overgrown tamarisk we didn’t know what we’d find.

We had to make sure that our group stayed together when we were hunting along the banks. If someone drifted too far downriver it was almost impossible to get back upstream.

Our first night, Mariana darted across the entire river and found the BEST campsite we could have asked for near mile 84 on river left. The bank was steep due to the river levels, but we managed to bring all the boats up and there was plenty of room to spread out.

We hung out in the “kitchen” area while everyone prepared their dinner, and afterwards had a roaring fire (well, as good as we can get while using a firepan!). This spot was pretty sheltered from the wind and we all had a great night’s sleep!

Day 2 was a bit more of a scramble. Tess knew of some sites past BowKnot, but by the time we got to the saddle take out between miles 70 & 69 on river right I was tired. I could also tell the kids were also pretty done. There was no way we were hiking to the top and then paddling another 5 miles into the wind to find a site. After inspecting the bank for a few dozen yards, we found a spot to beach the boats and haul our gear up on the bank. It wasn’t the “perfect” spot, and meant we needed to cover more miles the following day but we were able to set up camp and then hike to the saddle.

“We found this campsite just when we needed it. Unfortunately it was a bit windy (sand everywhere!) and there were pack rats (everyone survived), but we did get our hike up to the saddle and were able to sleep close to the river. We’ll call it a win. ” -@currentlywandering

Most of the magic of finding campsites is knowing what to look for. At lower river levels, sandbars are a great option.  Unfortunately, the river was so high we were reaching for banks and hanging onto tamarisk to keep from floating downstream. Most often people have carved paths through the vegetation to spots where it opens up for enough space to pitch a tent. You just have to look.

Take Out at Mineral Bottom

We made it to Mineral Bottom in the early afternoon on Day 3. This is one pull out you don’t want to miss!! The next take out is a good 6 days down river and involves getting a jet boat to shuttle you back up the Colorado. Kind of a big deal if you miss it!

Mineral Bottom is on river left, and at the time had a great big eddy we could pull in to with a nice beach. We pulled all the boats out of the water and then came the task of folding them up and cramming everyone’s gear into the back of our truck and a small, 4 door sedan. Good times.

There is an outhouse at the take out but its pretty nasty so don’t plan on using it.

Once we loaded everything, we then had the pleasure of driving out the windy, steep road. I’m just glad I wasn’t one of the drivers on the way IN. I think I would have passed out as I don’t do well on narrow roads with steep drop offs. Also note this road is absolutely impassable after a large rainstorm as it can easily get washed out.

Once we got back to the main road, we drove up to Ruby Ranch for our other vehicles and a reshuffling of gear. From there it was on to a celebratory hamburger dinner in Price!

Would We Do It Again?

I would do this trip again in a heartbeat. It definitely takes planning and coordination, but spending time with our kids on the river is one of my favorite things! We had our ups and downs, moments where things didn’t go exactly as planned, but that’s what life in the back country is like. Most importantly we had moments where we could really connect with our kids, and that’s what matters in the end.

HUGE thanks to Sea Eagle for providing our boats for this trip. As always, any opinions expressed are completely our own. This post also includes affiliate links.  Purchases made through our unique links will provide us with a small commission that will go toward keeping the blog running.  Thank you for your help!

Categories
National Parks On the Water Texas

Overnight Canoe Trip in Santa Elena Canyon – Big Bend National Park

When researching Big Bend National Park, we picked out a few things that were on our “must-do” list, and a few for the “would be great if we had time” list. Canoeing Santa Elena Canyon was at the top of the “must-do” list for sure! We’d seen some friends do a boomerang trip where you put in below the canyon, paddle upstream, and then turn around and go back. They had mentioned there were great campsites which got us thinking about how to extend our paddle to an overnight trip. After a lot of research and plenty of stress we pulled it off and we are so glad we did. This trip was definitely the highlight of our visit to Big Bend!

For the rest of trip see our Ultimate Guide for Big Bend National Park – Texas.

The Gear & Planning

We travel with backpacking gear & bikes, but we don’t have our own boats. We rented two regular canoes and related river gear from Far Flung Outdoor Center in Terlingua. There are other rental shops in town, but we felt these guys had the most extensive equipment for an overnight trip vs. just a day trip. We also paid them for a private shuttle at both ends of the trip. The shuttle was expensive (several hundred dollars) but going just as a family instead of a fully guided trip saved us about a thousand dollars.

Far Flung also has a great mileage chart for the river and shuttle fee estimator. Seriously tons of great info right on their website. We knew we wanted to take out at Santa Elena Canyon so the best spot for us to put in for roughly a two day paddle was Lajitas. Total river miles between the two is 18. Definitely the longest paddle we’ve done, but we knew we were up for it!

After we figured out our camping situation in Big Bend, we were able to call and reserve our canoes ahead of time. We were definitely there in the off season, so reservations were not a problem. We did get our desired dates, but Far Flung does run their own trips so coordinating a shuttle could have been difficult. Best to reserve everything as far in advance as possible.

One of the hardest things for us when we head to the back country is what to do with the Airstream? Many times we’ve been able to leave it in visitor center parking lots, but that wasn’t going to work here. The day before our trip, we moved the house to Cottonwood Campground in Big Bend which was the closest to Terlingua. It was cheaper than staying in an RV park in town ($15/night vs closer to $30) and we knew it would be safe. We unloaded and locked all our bikes next to the trailer and spent the afternoon packing and getting our food ready.

Equipment We Rented for 2 Days:

Fire Pan (required by the NPS whether you plan to have a fire or not): $10.78

Canoe (x 2): $340.48

Toilet System (we went with a groover, basically a plastic box inside an ammo can + a seat): $38.80

Larger Waterproof Bags (x 2): $32.32

Shuttle Fee: $80.81 drop off + $202.03 pick up = $294.84

Lost Paddle (oops): $30.17

Backcountry permit (required by NPS): $12

Total equipment rental: $747.39

Equipment We Brought:

Basically we took all our backpacking gear. We’ve worked hard to make sure its small and lightweight (not really a concern in a canoe though) and it was easy to just throw it all in the dry bags. We did pack everyone’s clothes, pajamas, kindles, headlamp, earphones, in individual packing cubes to keep things organized. I feel like it worked really well!

We then had our Freezer Bag cooking meals (We did a Thai noodle dinner this time and it was delicious!), Jet boil, and extra canister.

Just because we could, we packed our two REI camp chairs. They were awesome to have around at camp and the kids were jealous we wouldn’t share. I think next time we might need to pack a few more.

We had a small cooler bag for some lunch items (everything in it got totally soaked so I’m not sure I’d recommend it), and two 5 gallon Rhino water jugs for fresh water. The Rio Grande is a pretty nasty river and we were advised against filtering it, but 10 gallons was plenty for overnight.

Day One – Putting in at Lajitas

We arrived at Far Flung Outdoors by about 8am on Thursday morning. We needed to sign paperwork, double check equipment, and our shuttle timer started promptly at 9am so we wanted to be ready to go.  Everything went smoothly, and just before 9am we loaded up in the company van and our driver set out for Lajitas. Our driver was chatty and told us a little about the history of the ghost town and the area. Before we knew it, we made it to the put in, quickly unloaded, and then we were on our own!

The Rio Grande was running fairly low and slow, and took a great deal of effort to paddle. It was definitely not a float trip! We traded up canoe crews several times each day. Rachel and Andrew are both excellent paddlers, and Jess and I manned the rear seat. The blue bags you see are large dry bags that contain our gear. Yellow bags and ammo cans contain the required ‘groover’ toilet system. We used straps to tie the gear in the boat just in case we all spilled out!

The first day we covered 10 miles of river with open views and an occasional minor rapid. For our only real rapid of the day, Jess and I paddled each canoe through while the kids walked down the bank. The kids kept themselves entertained by singing songs, telling stories, and just talking. We counted all the turtles we saw, and broke into song whenever we saw one.

“These kids. I’m so grateful to be their mom. Cara is an excellent paddler but with 21 miles to go on our overnight trip we didn’t want to push her. Instead, anytime she wasn’t paddling, she happily took on the task of being our figurehead. Most of the time with kids and the outdoors it’s a “whatever it takes” mentality. 😂” – @currentlywandering

We stopped for lunch about mid-day by just pulling off the river. We had made sandwiches early that morning and paired with veggies and chips it was the perfect lunch!

We reached our overnight spot earlier than expected. It was chosen with two goals in mind: a non-muddy landing and non-rocky tent sites. Our camp was of questionable nationality: a river island at higher water levels, this piece of land was divided from the south by only a small trickle and was clearly frequented by Mexican cattle. One of our maps placed the border across the middle of the island, and the other map only showed a border where the middle of the river was clear and no border across the island at all.

Once we got our tents set up we had a few hours to kill until dinner. The kids all brought both audio books and kindles, and spent quite a bit of time relaxing in their tent. We also managed to play a game of Ticket to Ride on my phone. This is the hardest part for me about back country trips – dealing with bored kids once we get to camp! There was a little exploring we could do, and Cara had fun shoveling cow pies with our oars, but mostly it was just time to relax. We had forgotten our card games or even our backpacking bocce set (unfortunately) but we all survived!

The only person we saw this first day was a Mexican cowboy on the opposite bank. We figured he was out checking his herds, and just waved as he trotted past. There’s definitely something to be said for the isolation and peace found in our country’s wilderness places!

“As a family, we are constantly seeking to push ourselves outside our comfort zone. Although I’ve rafted plenty of rivers, planning this overnight canoe trip was extremely uncomfortable. Canoeing has never been my strength, and we were planning to be in very remote areas of Big Bend National Park.

Thursday night after a long day of paddling I stood on the shore of the Rio Grande and watched the sun set over our little campsite. Later, we sat by our fire, gazed at the most stars I have ever seen, drank herbal tea and for the first time in months I felt incredibly at peace. I am content. Happy with our choices, proud of my kids, and in awe at the path @telegramsam and I have traveled to get here.” -@currentlywandering

Day 2 – Paddling Through the Canyon

After a peaceful first day and a good night’s sleep, we felt prepared for day two. Within just the first few river miles, however, we fought with vegetation along a bank, high centered and tipped our first canoe of the day, and Jess hit a rock hard at Entrance Rapid near the mouth of Santa Elena Canyon. Needless to say, we were already pretty rattled.

Most of the paddling trip was fairly flat, boring water. We were warned sufficiently about Rock Slide, however, as its a boulder maze with no good way to portage around it. Sam had stressed the night before about our ability to make it through, but I had adopted a fairly “we’ll make it work” attitude. Fairly normal for both of us. Far Flung had given us a detailed map of this section and the various routes we could take to make it through.

“Rock Slide is rated a Class IV at much higher water levels, this is a Class III at current flow (284 CFS) mostly due to tight navigation. If we had a guide with us, I wouldn’t have been worried about this rapid at all. Because we were on our own, Jess and I felt the direct responsibility for the safety of our kids. We studied maps and guides, and we scouted the rapid in advance. Frankly, it was out of our comfort zone. We reminded the kids of some river safety practices, and made an appeal for divine guidance and strength.

Our courage gathered, we headed in. Rachel and I went first with an attempt at the fast moving Texan Gate, and spilled into the river as we were unable to keep their balance against a large boulder. After draining the canoe on a small sand bar mid-rapid, we managed to nail the small rock you see here in the center of the channel and dumped in again.  Luckily, we were able to drain enough water out to make the canoe workable in this tight spot, and then more fully drained the rest of the water out below the rapid. We lost both the toilet seat and a paddle in the process, but luckily picked the seat out of an eddy later on that day. A paddle was a small price to pay to make it through safely!” – @telegramsam

“My track record so far that morning was not great. I paddled Rachel through scraggly brush, dumped both girls in the water after siding on a mostly submerged rock, and ran straight into a large boulder after missing a turn – smacking my shins on the canoe bar and instantly developing large welts and bruises. As I watched the water rush towards yet another large rock I knew there was no way I could make that sharp turn and keep everyone safe and in the boat.

I could also tell the kids were scared. So much of parenting is protecting our children both physically and mentally and I was doing a poor job at both. After scouting the rapid we determined that Sam and Rachel would run the Texan gate first and I watched as they launched, turned, side hit the rock and promptly were dumped in the river. Luckily there was a sand bar and they were able to beach the canoe, dump it out and reset, but if Sam couldn’t do it, how on earth was I to? Fortunately there was another option. The Mexican gate had more turns but the river was moving much slower. Andrew and I dragged our canoe upriver and headed for the right side instead and we made it with only a few minor bumps.

After an entire day of paddling and honing my rudder skills, I look back and think, “Well, shoot. I could do that NOW.” Isn’t that a lot like life? We bumper our way through collecting bruises, get dumped in the water, and at the end of it are so much stronger and capable than when we began. Luckily along the way there’s also calm water and incredible views. We are all stronger from our experience, and Rachel will tell you Slide Rock was her favorite part of the trip.” -@currentlywandering

With Rock Slide behind us, we began to relax and enjoy the rest of the day. The walls of Santa Elena Canyon rose high around us, and the views were spectacular! The Canyon was pleasantly warm, and we paddled easily. We counted turtles, watched birds fly through the canyon high above or heads, and snacked on Perky Jerky and Starburst. We had a few more tight turns to paddle, but by this time we were all definitely in a rhythm and much more confident of our skills. After executing one rather well-time turn, Rachel looked back at me and exclaimed, “Mom! That was graceful!” High compliments from a girl who doubted all of my skills just a few hours earlier!

“Somewhere in the midst of overturned canoes, shin bashing, and bumper boats my Enso ring slipped off my finger and disappeared into the murky depths of the Rio Grande. Or more likely it floated downstream, got caught in an eddy, and now a Mexican Señora is in awe at the incredible comfortableness of this amazing piece of silicon wrapped around her finger.” -@currentlywandering

As we neared the mouth of Santa Elena Canyon we saw hikers on the same path we had walked just two days before. It was a surreal experience, remembering back to our limited view of this magnificent stretch of river. The view at the end is beautiful but insufficiently captures the adventure, the challenge, and the beauty of the 20 miles we paddled to get there.

We made it to the take out spot 20 minutes early, which gave us enough time to haul our boats out of the water, change our clothes, and grab a snack. Once our shuttle arrived, we piled everyone in and set out for the hour drive through Big Bend back to Terlingua.

We celebrated our successful trip with coin operated, hot showers and dinner out at a local Mexican restaurant. It was the perfect end to a fabulous trip! We don’t often push ourselves this far outside our comfort zone, but I’m so glad we did. There are so many ways our trip could have ended badly, and I’m grateful for the protection we believe the Lord gave us on our journey. I’m pretty sure we will all remember this trip for years to come!

Categories
California National Parks On the Water

Kayaking on Santa Cruz Island, California

kayaking-santa-cruz

This last Thanksgiving weekend, we spent 3 days out in Channel Islands National Park. The park consists of 5 islands located off the coast of southern California.

While doing research prior to the trip, I discovered one of the attractions for Santa Cruz Island is the sea caves. We have enjoyed paddling in lakes, streams, and rivers so adding some pacific sea cave kayaking to our resumes sounded like fun!

When We Visited: November 22-25, 2016

Ages of Kids: 11, 9, 6

channel-islands-2016_33We have a reasonable amount of paddling experience, and toyed with the idea of renting kayaks and bringing them on the ferry. After some research and discussion, however, both Sam and I agreed this adventure was out of our comfort zone. Instead we contacted Santa Barbara Adventure Company, who graciously agreed to comp both Sam & my fees on a media/press/blogger expedition. They are one of a few outfitters serving the Channel Islands and came highly recommended by some outdoor friends. They provided the kayaks, gear, and guides for our experience even going above and beyond with an extra guide to paddle with Andrew as all kids under 12 are required to paddle with an adult.

We walked down from the campground on Wednesday morning, and met our group near their equipment on the beach. Starting times vary as the ferry arrival isn’t super consistent. Many of the participants were coming over for just the day so we had to wait until everyone was unloaded. Totally not a problem.

Before we hit the water, we outfitted in our suits, PFDs, and a good application of sunscreen. Wrestling kids into wet suits was a bit of a challenge for both them and us, but we all made it work. Our last major experience in the ocean was in Florida over Christmas, and water there was quite warm. Here in the Pacific the water is significantly colder so we opted for both wet suits and paddle jackets!

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After gearing up, we had a quick safety talk. Our guides instructed us on paddle handling, how to get in the boat (rear end first, then swing your legs over!), and safety measures should someone fall out. The weather that morning was fairly windy, and I was grateful for our choice to work with an outfitter and for their attention to our safety. Our guides reiterated that if we weren’t comfortable we wouldn’t have fun and to let them know if we experienced difficulties!

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Our guides specifically advised paying attention to our seat adjustment in the kayak. There are a set of straps that adjust the sitting position, and getting it right made a huge difference. Most of us got adjusted properly before launch, but Rachel needed some adjustment during our paddle. She was really struggle with leg cramps (and attitude!) and came close to the edge of a total meltdown. Our super attentive guide recognized her discomfort and managed her straps while on the water. While it wasn’t a fix for her attitude problems, we definitely solved the leg cramping and her spirits improved considerably!

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The kayaks are tandem kayaks and for good reason. During difficult wind or swell conditions it can take all the effort of two good paddlers to fight the waves. Sam is our strongest paddler, so he paired with 6-year-old Cara. I’m not the most amazing paddler myself, so Rachel came with me. Andrew joined a guide in a double kayak. He can be seen in the picture below, holding up a Giant Antler Kelp we found floating on the surface.

The main attraction to see around the islands are the sea caves at the bottom of the cliffs. We were able to paddle into and through several caves during our tour, and it was a great experience. We paddled along the edge of the cliffs to visit each spot, pausing in small coves to rest. On the first half of the trip, we were paddling against both the wind and the swell, and it was really challenging. Turns out you can also get a little motion sick while paddling a kayak through the ocean!

During our breaks, we listened to the now obvious advice from our guides and anchored ourselves to the kelp beds during our rests. By grabbing a handful of kelp, your kayak would not drift away, yet required no paddling to keep in place. Seriously genius.

Our guides talked to us about the island, the wildlife, how the caves were formed and other interesting facts about the area. I loved that our tour was not only physical exercise, it was informative as well. Two of the caves we visited were pretty large, but the last and smallest had fairly tight quarters. We entered one at a time and had just enough room to spin around and head back out. Only open at certain tide levels, the cave is called “Shark’s Teeth” and was definitely everyone’s favorite!

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It isn’t very obvious in the picture below, but the seas were pretty rough at points of our trip. At one point Jess and Rachel needed some help and accepted a temporary tow from one of the guides. Little Cara tried hard, but Sam was clearly doing most of the difficult work. At the halfway point of our trip, we had an opportunity to paddle past the point of the island to look down its length. This put us in full exposure to the stiff wind and oncoming swell

With guides present, we were able to be a little more adventurous. Sam and Cara paddled hard out beyond the point into the big swells, knowing that if they had some trouble guides were not far away. We also appreciated their knowledge of the sea caves, and which were safe to enter given the sea conditions and the current level of the water.

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We turned around and made it back across from the beach with about an hour and a half left in our time. Here we had the option to beach our kayaks, or to continue south and explore the other end of the island. We knew our kids were tired and it would be a paddle upwind to return, so we opted out. The rest of our group continued on but we were definitely happy with what we had accomplished.

After stowing our kayak gear, Cara surprised us by insisting she wanted to go snorkeling. For no additional charge Santa Barbara Adventure Co will also provide snorkel gear. While Sam and I added a wet suit jacket to our sleeveless suits, our guide fitted the three of us with fins & masks. Rachel and Andrew, however, walked back to the tents for a rest claiming they were too tired for a swim. Apparently kayaking totally wore them out!

Cara didn’t last long, but watching her excitedly point out fish and swim through tall kelp was adorable! She seemed excited to have mom and dad all to herself and dove in like a champ. The kids all learned to snorkel on the Dry Tortugas last year, and apparently Cara liked it enough to go again. This time we had kelp beds instead of coral and it was fun to experience something completely different.

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As a family we participate in a lot of outdoor adventure. From backpacking to mountain biking, or simple nature walks we regularly push our physical and mental boundaries. This kayak trip was definitely one of the hardest outdoor experiences we’ve had. That said, I’m so glad we did it! We felt completely safe and taken care of by our guides – which is honestly one of the best ways to push your limits.

If you head to Santa Cruz Islands in the Channel Islands National Park, definitely make the time for some sea kayaking while you are there. It’ll be worth it!

Categories
Backpacking Biking Hiking On the Water Outdoor Adventures Rock Climbing Utah

Summary & Review of REI’s Powder Mountain Outessa Summit

outessa-jcurren-day-1_18We turned up the winding canyon road and our excitement mounted with every foot of elevation we climbed. We turned off the main rode and drove the last few hundred feet up a dirt road to the very top of Powder Mountain Ski Resort. We crested the final hill and were in awe of the view that would be ours for the next 4 days. This was truly going to be a spectacular weekend.

Partnered with REI, the brains behind an all women’s outdoor adventure summit went all out. From amazing REI guides and teachers from all over the country, world class food, national championship level athletes, prominent vendors in the outdoor industry, and a full schedule, they worked to cover every detail to create a one of a kind event.

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After checking in, receiving my welcome packet (an Osprey day pack will all sorts of goodies inside!) I was led to the spot where Camp Outessa was being formed. I opted to bring my own camping gear and stake it out in the temporary camp, but immediately became aware it wasn’t going to be easy. We were set up in a parking lot at the top of the hill, and naturally, the ski resort uses a hardening agent in the dirt so the entire top of the mountain doesn’t slide off when the snow hits. It also makes it really hard to stake in a tent. Outessa had laid out fresh sod over the dirt which helped the stake situation (we angled all our stakes in practically sideways) and also provided a soft surface to sleep on. I was extremely grateful to not have dust and dirt in the tent area! We had some resourceful people helping us try to get our stakes in the ground, and resorted to a lot of sandbags, rocks, and sharing  of large tent stakes so we could have at least one corner staked down well.

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Thinking I was set up as well as I could be, I met back up with my friend and we explored the REI village where vendors were setting up. There wasn’t really anything going on that evening, just mostly checking in and getting set up. Unfortunately, I hadn’t realized meals weren’t provided until the following day, so by the time dinner rolled around I was one of quite a few hungry people hanging out. We snaked protein bars, almond butter, and a few other snacks laid out for the weekend, and after chatting on the deck and watching the sun go down we headed to bed excited and ready for the following morning.

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Then the wind picked up, the temperature dropped, and nobody slept.

I swear it was the worst night’s sleep I have had in my entire life and I’ve been pregnant three times. Not being able to fully stake my tent fly out it was flapping loudly all night long while consistently hitting me in the head. It was also bitterly cold. I woke up around 2am and donned almost every single piece of clothing I had brought. Layered up I still slept fitfully with the noise and wind chill.

Miserable, angry, and feeling utterly defeated I woke up at 6:45am the next morning and grumbled my way out of the tent to attempt a sunrise photo. I wasn’t feeling it and I’ll admit I had some not nice thoughts going through my head. I was hungry, cold, tired, and not sure how I was going to manage a full schedule of outdoor activities on little sleep and no real food. Breakfast was light (tofu burritos) and I longed for oatmeal, eggs, or anything that could help give me a boost for the day.

At this point I had a choice. I could suck it up, change my attitude, and purposely strive forward knowing that nothing is perfect. Or, I could give in to the demons in my head, pack up and head for a hotel later that day where I knew I could get a good night’s rest.

I chose the former option and am so glad I did.

My first class wasn’t until 9am, so I went back to my tent determined to fix the fly problem. There were some helpful men running around with large hammers, more rocks, and helpful attitudes. We managed to stake my fly out a little better and I also found the Big Agnes camp hostesses walking around with ear plugs and hand warmers to help both the noise and the cold. Bless their souls.

Buoyed by this success, I started my classes and had a fantastic day. I made my own ProBar, tortured myself with a Trigger Point foam rolling session, conquered an overhang in an intermediate rock climbing class, and headed out on a mountain bike for a trail ride. I loved being surrounded by passionate women who excelled in their sports and were there to encourage and support us in whatever we were willing to try!

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Thankfully there was very little wind Friday night (I fully attribute that to all the prayers that I’m sure were being said all day!) and woke refreshed and ready to pound another day.

Mountain Biking Tight Turns, SUP, Backpacking Cooking, and an amazing, travel photography workshop with Chris Burkard kept me running on my feet until dinner. Perhaps my schedule was a bit packed (I did manage to squeeze a few minutes to sit in the ENO hammock lounge) but I thrive on doing all the things. With so many options it wasn’t difficult to keep busy.

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Saturday night we hiked a mile to dinner as a group where we were treated to a crab boil! I ate salad, cornbread, seafood, and potatoes amidst some great company, and a charged, positive vibe from the group.

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Afterward we retired to the campfire and sat huddled against the cold laughing, talking and enjoying each other’s company. To top it off we were served grilled peaches, pound cake, and whipped cream while we watched the sun sink on the horizon.

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Although I wasn’t in the mood to run, I knew that if I ditched my headlamp run I would forever regret it. Despite the fact that were were full of crab, there were 5 of us that set off on a short 2 mile trail run around 8:30pm. Decked out with Salomon running shoes we made our way down the hill and back up again. Lit by our headlamps underneath the moon and stars it was probably one of the most peaceful things I’ve ever done. Mid-way we stopped to just stare at the night sky full of stars.  Proud of myself and warm from the run I crawled into my sleeping bag and slept easily until morning.

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Sunday dawned bright and crisp and after a quick breakfast of yogurt, muffins, and fruit I got dressed in my mountain biking gear and headed for my most anticipated class: Mountain Bike Skills – Wheel Lifts. After attending my skills class the previous morning I was dying to add this class and the night before a spot opened up. The instructor for all the MTB classes was Cindy Abbot-Wood – the Senior Instructor for the REI Outdoor School in Austin, TX and one amazing pro-level mountain biker.

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You guys – I didn’t know you could take mountain biking skills classes and I was hooked. I seriously wanted to just drink everything in.

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Demoing her awesome skills to the class, our group of instructors including pro athletes Sarah Kaufmann, and Rebecca Rusch, and me learning how to balance while doing a wheelie.

If there was anything I got from attending Outessa, it would be the passion, desire, focus, and motivation to follow my dreams. Cindy and I chatted after class (and my amazingly awesome wheelie!) about life, what I could do to certify as an instructor, and how to continuously improve my skills and even get into the racing scene. She could tell I’ve been bit badly by the mountain biking bug and absolutely encouraged and empowered me.

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Julia Mallon(co-founder), Cindy Abbott-Wood (REI Guide), Bart Davis (co-founder)

On a total high from my class and chat with Cindy, I skipped my stretching session and opted for a moment or two in the hammock and time to just breathe before taking the shuttle down to the reservoir for kayaking with OruKayaks. The instructors decided to throw in a little origami while we were at it.

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Even though I was dying to go ride with the group on the afternoon trail ride, at this point I was feeling pretty spent and knew that 2 hours on the trail might just kill me. Instead I opted to check out the Leatherman class (and got a free Skeletool!) and ended the day with Yoga at 5pm.

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My entire experience was a completely packed 3 days, but there were so many other classes I could have taken. Plenty on hiking, photography, campfire cooking, taking care of your body, meditation, or even map & compass. It was great to gather at meals and see what classes other women had taken and how they felt about it. So many felt enabled after taking an Intro to Backpacking, or Rock Climbing class. Many had sports or activities they had always wanted to try but never felt they could get into on their own. Taking a class, learning about equipment and being able to ask questions was just what most of these women needed. No egos, no judgement, just encouragement from all sides.

Outessa is all about empowering women in the outdoors. They encourage us to nurture our passions and feed our curiosities. I came home fueled up, filled, and completely ready to tackle whatever life throws at me. Was the event perfect? Of course not. From a less than ideal camping situation, to dinner on Thursday night, or even shuttle schedules, I know that the brains behind Outessa are working on solutions. For a first time event however, I completely feel Outessa knocked it out of the park. They were so aware of us, our needs, and what they could do to make our experience even better. Just as we learn from the obstacles thrown in our path you can bet Outessa is already hard at work hammering out details to make next year even better than this one and I can’t wait to be there.

Categories
Driggs On the Water Wyoming

Whitewater Rafting in Jackson WY with Lewis & Clark River Expeditions

Whitewater rafting in Jackson WY with Lewis & Clark River ExpeditionsWhile attending college at Brigham Young University in Provo, Utah, I worked as a rafting guide for Outdoors Unlimited on the daily section of the Green River. I spent many a weekend in the summer sleeping out under the stars by night and navigating or swimming the rapids by day. I learned to soak up the sights, smells, and sounds of the river and passionately love rafting as an outdoor sport.

Naturally I’ve been anxious to introduce my kids to rafting and this summer we were able to do just that! While we *probably* could have rented gear and navigated this 8 mile section of the Snake River ourselves, we chose to go with an outfitter. Rafting independently is great, but we’d also have to rent gear and arrange a shuttle. As this was our first trip with the kids we were unsure how they would respond and wanted to be prepared with someone experienced and make the entire thing as easy as possible. Most rafting companies have a minimum age of 6, and Cara reached that milestone in May 2016 so we were good to go!

We chose to go with Lewis & Clark River Expeditions based out of Jackson, WY. Its a smaller, family run company and they were a dream to work with. Our timing was fabulous as Karen (the owner)  had just talked with a marketing strategist who recommend teaming up with an outdoor blogger to do a collaboration. Total win-win situation!

We signed up for the early bird 8:00 am trip which included a hot breakfast before leaving on the bus for the boat launch. Nothing gets you excited for the river like a hot egg, bacon, muffin, and orange juice feast! Despite the early hour, Karen assured me the weather would warm up by the time we got on the water and there’s usually fewer boats, less crowds and more wildlife in the morning. Plus, better light for photos which is always a plus for me!

Jackson Rafting_23Once done eating, our group took over the back of the bus for the 30 minute ride up the canyon to the put in at West Gulch. Once we arrived we had a short orientation, we all went to the bathroom, donned our rain shells & life jackets and were assigned a guide and a boat. Then it was time to shove off! We had a short stretch of flat water where our guide, Aaron, went over some safety protocol and we practiced paddling while following instructions. Aaron steers the boat, but all the power comes from the paddlers – us!

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Aaron is an awesome river guide – the right balance between keeping us safe and being chill about having quite a few people in his boat. He nailed all the rapids at great angles to soak all the teenagers sitting in the front of the boat and everyone had a great ride! He’s been working with the company for over 10 years and I could tell he absolutely loves his job.

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Photos courtesy of Floatographs

Lewis & Clark provides free wet suits for the kids 12 and under which we gladly used. There’s a flat water section during a lull in rapids about halfway through the trip and after getting the thumbs up from our guide we all bailed out of the boat into the cold water for a quick swim. Once the rain shells came off, they didn’t go back on.

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The rafting lasted about an hour and half and we arrived at the take out all too soon. The best part about river rafting is that the ride can change depending on when you go and the river levels. Earlier in the season can be very different than a run later in the season. Big Kahuna and Lunch Counter rapids compete for the title of largest rapid at various water levels. I think no matter what time you go, the ride will be enjoyable. The scenery is gorgeous, and we were even able to see a few young bald eagles!

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Jackson Rafting_12 At the take out there’s a short walk/hike up to the bus where we took advantage of the restrooms and changing rooms. We were able to leave our dry clothes, towels, and anything else we needed on the bus since they just park and wait for us at that take out. We fished out some snacks for the drive back and although the kids were totally pumped from the experience I could tell they were also tired!

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If you’ve never been rafting, this is a great river to get your feet wet (pun intended!). Its a shorter ride and there are plenty of outfitters to choose from in Jackson, although we can’t recommend Lewis & Clark enough. We couldn’t have been happier about our experience on the river, and the smiles on my kids’ faces made this outdoor adventure momma a happy camper!

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We’ve already had people ask us how we got the photos we did – let’s just say my brother-in-law is a genius. We both had GoPro’s but the best photos came from his on a selfie stick out in front of the raft. We primary left them on video mode and then used the GoPro computer software to screen capture. So much easier than trying to nail the shot while you are being doused with water while going through a rapid!

I also had my Fuji X-T10 with us in a dry bag, but don’t recommend taking a “real” camera. They don’t encourage dry bags or any extra stuff on your trip in case it gets swept overboard!

Float0graphs has photographers at Big Kahuna to capture your group in action! We were given these as part of our blogger experience, but as a photographer, I can vouch for how awesome it is to have great photos of your entire group. Totally worth it.

List of photography equipment:

GoPro Hero 3+
Backdoor Replacement Housing
Wasabi Extended Battery
Floating Handgrip
GoPro Head Strap Mount
QuickPod Selfie Stick